Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wouldn't cut a hydro into the rear brake line, it feels like absolute crap, and then you can't foot brake and hand brake at the same time.
You have an internal drum handbrake which is very good, I'd work around that instead of cutting a hydro in.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

who foot brakes and handbrakes at the same time?? wank factor?? how, if your serious about drifting go for hydraulic everyone uses them because there is nomaintenance required you'll never loose that feel

Don't listen to street drifters..

who foot brakes and handbrakes at the same time?? wank factor?? how, if your serious about drifting go for hydraulic everyone uses them because there is nomaintenance required you'll never loose that feel

Don't listen to street drifters..

so your suggesting use hydro handbrake because everyone uses them?? And no such thing ad no maintenance.

street drifters.? Huh.

so your suggesting use hydro handbrake because everyone uses them?? And no such thing ad no maintenance.

street drifters.? Huh.

As in there is a reason why everyone uses them. What maintenance can you think of besides changing brake pads?

Also don't brake pads last longer than drumpads??

who foot brakes and handbrakes at the same time?? wank factor?? how, if your serious about drifting go for hydraulic everyone uses them because there is nomaintenance required you'll never loose that feel

Don't listen to street drifters..

Assume your heading in to a corner at over 100kph using the most common entry technique (handbrake). You notice your going way to fast but want to maintain your angle and the control of the slide. What do you do? Use the front brake while still having the handbrake engaged. Rather than I guess purposely trying spin out to avoid slamming your car in to the wall?

I use a hydraulic handbrake and still engage the front brake mid slide, if needed.

If your handbrake works, don't change it. Install a drift button. If its on its way out look at getting a brake upgrade perhaps. I run big VS commodore brakes engaged by a hydraulic handbrake in a R31 skyline. Works a treat.

^^ Handbrake isn't an entry technique!!!
That's such an 'Aussie' drifting technique - it's crap. Handbrake is a tool to use midcorner to extend your line, a tool, not a technique for initiating a drift.

Do some research about real drifting before unloading bad advice on a good forum.

^^ Handbrake isn't an entry technique!!!

That's such an 'Aussie' drifting technique - it's crap. Handbrake is a tool to use midcorner to extend your line, a tool, not a technique for initiating a drift.

Do some research about real drifting before unloading bad advice on a good forum.

Oh ok. I guess keiichi tsuchiya is wrong and you are right. I mean he is the founder and one of the best drifters in the world but of course he must be mistaken. I'll let him know for you.

Yes, it is possible to initiate using the hand brake, but it is not at all the best technique for entry.

If you follow drifting in Japan at all, or any of the current good drifters you will see handbrake entries are hardly used

The best people do not use handbrake entries. Look at Suenaga, Nishida, Streeter. They all have amazing, unique style and do not use a handbrake to initiate a drift.
This is a very recent video from Nikko, look at the technique and you will see they do not use handbrake for initiating

The amazing video of Streeter drifting Meihan

High speed on Nishi course at Ebisu

Suenaga in a near-stock 180sx

Handbrake entries are outdated, 'Aussie' and low-skill.

Oh ok. I think I understand stand now. Before you said "handbrake isn't an entry technique!!!" And now your saying it is a technique but not the best one to use? And then continue on to reference all these very experienced drifters, some even professional drivers and their amazing techniques. Which is all fine and well, however we aren't pro drifters like you. And for novice to amateur drivers like me (which, lets be honest, is a lot of us) we use basic techniques, of which the handbrake entry is the most common. You are right, it may not be the best, and I do agree with you. But it's the easiest and the most common.

It may not be relevant to the argument, however this thread is about handbrakes. Therefore a handbrake entry comment was bound to come up. Wasn't trying to start an argument. Just stating my opinion.

My mistake, I should have said handbrake is a crappy entry technique, and certainly not the most common technique.

I know you're taking a stab at me by calling me a 'pro drifter' - just to be clear I am an absolute novice, only learning.
However, I do know that relying on a handbrake for entries is a bad idea, especially when you are learning. If you learn to use a handbrake for entries you will not develop good driving skill, you will become lazy and end up coming into a corner, braking, handbrake and power out - not really drifting.

You are better off learning to control the car with your foot brake, weight transfer and throttle. I drifted for 2 years in my R31 without a handbrake at all, including my first ever drift day (which as anyone who drifts knows, is an interesting learning experience).

It is more important to learn about weight transfer and being able to brake, steer and apply the throttle correctly, handbrake is a lazy thing to use and doesn't develop your skill.

Likewise, this is an open forum and we are entitled to our opinions (although, we have gone off topic). I'm not trying to argue, I'm just interested to chat about drifting :-)

Yeah, I think we both have valid points. At the end of the day it's a personal preference on how each technique benefits your drifting based on a combination of your skills and your car. I couldn't agree more about the importance of weight transfer and how you should learn all aspects of it, rather than just relying on one technique.

In regards to the type of handbrake I use, it's a JJR hydraulic system.

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19721&cat=331&page=1

Although if you are on a budget, the ebay ones are a lot more affordable. In comparison to mine, there isnt much different in terms of reliablity and appearance. I know numerous people running the ebay ones for over 2 years now.

If a hydraulic system isn't what your after then try a drift button. Also, a much cheaper option

For an r32 skyline gtst, is the ksport one any good? Thanks! Please reply cant find good information on it.

You will be fine with stock. If you do struggle, check cable adjustment and brake shoes.

Hey dude,

Just get any hydraulic hand brake and tee it into the rear callipers.

There all the same ae! i use a D2 one, doesn't have to be a big brand

I use a 3/4 master cylinder, gives better lever feel!

In line hydro handbrake is terrible. It should a separate system or valving should be used.

Standard with decent shoes at most change lever/handle, hydro is a bit of wank looks "racey" but really not needed.

Agree with this guy

who foot brakes and handbrakes at the same time?? wank factor?? how, if your serious about drifting go for hydraulic everyone uses them because there is nomaintenance required you'll never loose that feel

Don't listen to street drifters..

I do. It's not wank factor. Most people that use them rely way to much on them which can lead into bad technique.

If your serious about drifting, start standard and when your skill improves, then increase the performance of the car. A standard R32 handbrake is fine, if it doesn't work you've got problems you need to fix.

I would hope Handbrake isn't the most common entry technique.

Ok plenty of talk about handbrake entries as a technique, It is not. Its a great way for a beginner/firstimer to get a car sideways and learn to catch the slide and generally familiarize themselves with getting sideways and not spinning out. Its like training wheels on a bike. Mid corner (pre apex) or closing up on the lead car is about the only place its really needed. And the standard properly working line and shoes is fine save the money for some new bushes ir something

Don't know what planet someone of you guys are on.

1st you can't learn to drift of youtube, tsuchiya is a legend no disrepect but everyone is different

2nd I disagree hydrau feels like shit i've been using it for 3 years!

If need be depending on your car you could get aftermarket rear hubs which allow you to run a dual caliper setup/totally independent setups if your fussed about "that feel".

btw i wouldn't use a the foot brake and hydrau handbrake at the same time to tighten my line, that's just weird.. i use foot brake to slow down when in a slide

To the OP. As peeps have said above, if your stock handbrake is adjusted well and working good leave it at that for now.

Too many people get caught up in the "i need XYZ to be able to drift" thing.

I have drifted cars with hydro hand brakes and never liked the feel. Which Im sure can be changed by using different master cyl and such, but again, If your starting out, stock will be fine.

  • Like 1

A healthy handbrake line and good handbrake shoes (PMU or Speedtek) is all thats needed. i use speedtek shoes and they have not even thought about failing me. And when doing decent sized entrys the footbrake is needed to wash off speed and keep your angle. Id like to see somebody come hot into an entry and just use the handbrake to hold angle and wash off speed.

Edited by LTHLRB
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...