Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Back to the story.

After finishing up at nats and having a mad time things went back to normal.

Just the usual things started with the car.

Removed my turbo timer and came across this mess.

Not sure who the hell did this home job but it all got removed and fixed.

lDHYqLh.jpg?1

After a few spirited runs through the cotter I noticed that my intake gasket was shot.

So I ordered a new one online and did some research on how to change it.

At the same time I decided to get rid of the hicas and chuck a lock bar in it.

The intake gasket is a farking bitch to change! cut the fark out of my knuckles, lost a spanner (still haven't found it lol)

If you ever have to change one then make sure you have ratchet spanners because they are awesome!

4pHq5jS.jpg?1

Well it only took me a week to do :P but Yeh, it's very tidy and works much better than it used too. Hopefully yours does too! Good job on pulling out the turbo timer too, I'm glad to be rid of mine. Should have listened to everyone that told me when I put it in, but I was all excited about having a turbo car :laugh:

Haha that's exactly what I was looking forward to when I purchased the car. Felt like a sick karnt walking away from the car while it idled for a while.

The novelty wore off within a few months and I couldn't turn the damn thing off otherwise the car wouldn't start. Home job wiring

Yehhh, mine stopped working. Wouldn't keep the engine running, but kept the electrics on for 30 seconds. Means my oil pressure gauge would scream at me when I shut the engine down at the pressure dropped below 20psi :laugh: So far no sign of my old starting issues either, so I'm hoping they were related to the turbo timer.

ANYWAY, got round to doing the throttle sealant yet?

It's been one day dude haha

Throttle body sealant will be done this weekend I hope.

I'm going to use some glue that I have here and make sure it's a really fine film so that it breaks when I open the throttle.

I will report back how this goes.

The proper sealant can be purchased but its $80 for a small tin

Fark that

Make sure that glue is oil resistant, you don't want blow-by breaking down the glue and having it fly into your motor :/ Personally I'd fork out for the correct stuff, $80 is cheaper than causing other problems...

Communal goo? - sounds like soggy SAO game !

but Robs onto something. I think there would be a number of locals who might need/use

or perhaps a shop like Trojan might part with enough to help you out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
×
×
  • Create New...