Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Friday, sounds good.

Got a hole in my front right tyre, its not all the way through, but it is into the belt.

Been doing some research, and there is a good method of repairing from inside the tyre. However it may not be good enough for Wakefield.

This:

A punctured speed rated tire brings with it additional considerations. While some tire manufacturers "allow" a tire to retain its speed rating if a specified multi-step repair procedure is followed exactly, most tire manufacturers reason that since they have no control over the damage caused by the puncture or the quality of the repair, they cannot confirm that the tire has retained its high speed capability. Therefore, their policy is that a punctured and repaired tire no longer retains its speed rating and should be treated as a non-speed rated tire.

Fresh brake pads and fluid going in this time.

And ill bring PLENTY of top up fluids too, its not hillclimbing.

Diff isnt leaking too bad, i will fix it before then if i can get a seal easy. Otherwise i can top it up if it needs it.

  • Like 1

Friday, sounds good.

Got a hole in my front right tyre, its not all the way through, but it is into the belt.

Been doing some research, and there is a good method of repairing from inside the tyre. However it may not be good enough for Wakefield.

This:

A punctured speed rated tire brings with it additional considerations. While some tire manufacturers "allow" a tire to retain its speed rating if a specified multi-step repair procedure is followed exactly, most tire manufacturers reason that since they have no control over the damage caused by the puncture or the quality of the repair, they cannot confirm that the tire has retained its high speed capability. Therefore, their policy is that a punctured and repaired tire no longer retains its speed rating and should be treated as a non-speed rated tire.

It'll be fine. Repaired a few of them with rubber inserts . It is really difficult to tear the belts on a tire. I'm pretty sure manufacturers err on the side of caution.

Fresh brake pads and fluid going in this time.

And ill bring PLENTY of top up fluids too, its not hillclimbing.

Diff isnt leaking too bad, i will fix it before then if i can get a seal easy. Otherwise i can top it up if it needs it.

Very good idea to bring top up fluids!

I have Project Mu mixed street/track brake pads and they hold up well, especially with the slotted rotors up front - still usable on the street too.

Make sure you also bring a bit of extra oil, as consumption increases a lot with a hot turbo on track (in my experience)

Brake bleed before and after will also make a big difference.

Also take a jerry can of fuel or two

  • Like 1

Tyre pressure makes a big difference.

Theres a big air compressor at the track, at the end of the sheds.

Im getting a good gauge, had to wait, hopefully they have stock now.

Also i have that temp gun, to see what temps were getting on the tyres.

Well unfortunately my leave wasn't approved.. Going to be too hard at the moment at work.. :(

I'll have to look into going another day some time in the future I suppose

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...