Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I have just been offered a job with a car allowance, so it's time to go car shopping! I have been eyeing off the Ford Utes as I want something comfortable as i will be doing a lot of miles, and a lot of grunt because why not. I also need to be able tow my race car, so that leaves the Holden's out as they don't have the towing capacity.
So, I'm down to two choices, a brand new XR6t or a Used F6 with low miles (09-10). What are the major differences between these two cars? From what I understand, when the new F6 came out it had brembos, better interior and a bigger turbo/injectors. Does the new XR6t have any new features that compete with these? Did both cars come out with the ZF auto? By the looks of it they are both in the same price range, what do you think is the better car?
I found a pretty clean F6 with low kms on Carsales, do you think it's a better buy than a new xr6?

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Ford-Performance-Vehicles-F6-2009/SSE-AD-1029023/?Cr=17&sdmvc=1

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429806-used-f6-ute-or-new-xr6t-ute/
Share on other sites

The holdens have the same tow capacity as thes vehicles you listed. ALL are rated @ 1,600kg.

Personally, for my next daily, I will be getting a BMW X5 second hand.

2006/7, leather interior, euro build quality, 6sp auto, 165kw / 500nm Turbo Diesel straight 6 (can flash tune them to 180kw / 600nm). They are currently going for around $35k to $40k with anywhere from 90k to 120k. And being a diesel, it will just keep going and going.

Pefect for a comfortable cruiser that can most certainly tow whatever you throw at it. Similar year model Audi Q7's are for similar coin.

Edited by Tonba

Hi guys, I have just been offered a job with a car allowance, so it's time to go car shopping! I have been eyeing off the Ford Utes as I want something comfortable as i will be doing a lot of miles, and a lot of grunt because why not. I also need to be able tow my race car, so that leaves the Holden's out as they don't have the towing capacity.

So, I'm down to two choices, a brand new XR6t or a Used F6 with low miles (09-10). What are the major differences between these two cars? From what I understand, when the new F6 came out it had brembos, better interior and a bigger turbo/injectors. Does the new XR6t have any new features that compete with these? Did both cars come out with the ZF auto? By the looks of it they are both in the same price range, what do you think is the better car?

I found a pretty clean F6 with low kms on Carsales, do you think it's a better buy than a new xr6?

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Ford-Performance-Vehicles-F6-2009/SSE-AD-1029023/?Cr=17&sdmvc=1

Trannie is the same as far as I know.

Depends on how many horsepowers you want as to whether the upgrades are worthwhile. Stocker cant be tuned to go pretty hard.

Also there was a recent run of limited edition utes with upgrades to interior etc. May be worth looking for one of them as an option.

The poverty pack xr6 interior isnt brilliant but you may be able to get a lux pack. Gives you leather, 19" rims, satnav and doof doof. Or just get leather if you want.

Both come with the some ZF auto. The F6 has bigger turbo, cooler, injectors and can make close to 300rwkw with just a tune. The F6 also comes with brembo's better interior and some other bits n pieces.

The new XR6T has a bigger center screen with satnav as standard I think. Both are awesome to tow with.

Correct me if I'm wrong but the XR might use more fuel as the smaller turbo would be on boost more than the 3540 in the F6.

I'd probably go with the F6 as the Brembo's would be nice to tow with. Plus it's a better car all round.

  • 3 weeks later...

Over on the XR6 forums I've heard the FG's are known to have a number of issues. do you think it would be a risky purchase buying an F6 or XR6t out of warranty?

Would only be looking at something with under 30,000 kms, but I don't want to buy a lemon!

get the xr6t and upgrade to brembos.

any idea what the brembos would be worth?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...