Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Josh: sit tight, I was talking to TRW and they are looking at plain 595s for drifters.

Ricoh: Interesting, I hadn't heard that, where did you hear/read that?

Here in the MS section a couple of times. Have a look at the semis thread.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429863-tyre-prices/#findComment-6959717
Share on other sites

Yup, I was geared up to get them, guys who were running tyres they got ages ago raved about them, I was quoted 360 per tyre in 18/265/35 in medium comp, but too many guys said the compound had changed and they were now slow, ordinary. Wasn't just one either quite a few said the same thing. So, after much umming and ahhhhing I went kumho v70a. Ended up being the best balance of performance vs dollars plus good lasting, my local guru says easy to drive on, so they ticked all the boxes. The Hankooks were up around 450 per tyre, AO50 was dear ish too and dunlops scary dear. Bit of good info in the circuit semi thread and the semis for sprints/hill climbs thread

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429863-tyre-prices/#findComment-6960065
Share on other sites

This is why I love dealing with TRW, I was talking to Luke last night about the comments in here and I have a reply from him and Federal this morning, now that's service. Anyway, here's what he said.

""I did my research when we got Federal onboard, and stumbled across the thread saying that the compound changed.

So I had a serious chat with my federal rep...

I said this is what I have read, what is the story.

He informed me that the new compound was harder. However what seems to be happening the internet community are comparing them to a A 048 or 050. And yes they are harder, yes they are slighter slower, but they last longer. At $310 a corner for 235/45/r17, they are good value compared to the $600 of a A050.

He said that there has been some feedback from the guys with light car with small power outputs that said they had trouble with them, (I take this to be the Escorts, and the like) But the heavier cars with more power found them more durable.

I asked about the soft option, and he said its the same soft tyre. Its quick but like anything in a soft compound it won't be as durable."

So in my mind that makes plenty of sense and they still represent good value, I've been happy with the RS-Rs for the money.

Oh and he also said this.

"The 595 Drift tyres are now up, and at crazy prices. $105 for a 17 inch"

Like I said, that's service.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429863-tyre-prices/#findComment-6960462
Share on other sites

He said that there has been some feedback from the guys with light car with small power outputs that said they had trouble with them, (I take this to be the Escorts, and the like) But the heavier cars with more power found them more durable.

Have you tried them yet? Can anyone racing a Skyline comment?

Just about to make the switch to 18's and need some new semis, however I'm on a budget and want something that will last while I get familiar with the car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429863-tyre-prices/#findComment-6960496
Share on other sites

Agreed Harry, so I'd like to hear from people who have used the new compound, I'm OK with it being slower than competing products because it's so much cheaper.

It's all relative. I didn't build up a Silvia and use RS-Rs because I'm trying to be the fastest guy out there lol

What do you think is a good bang for buck tyre Harry? What are you running?

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429863-tyre-prices/#findComment-6960529
Share on other sites

He informed me that the new compound was harder. However what seems to be happening the internet community are comparing them to a A 048 or 050. And yes they are harder, yes they are slighter slower, but they last longer. At $310 a corner for 235/45/r17, they are good value compared to the $600 of a A050.

Last time I bought A050's they were $500 for a 255/40/17. Expect the 235's to be cheaper again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429863-tyre-prices/#findComment-6960700
Share on other sites

Would love to see an apples to apples comparison rather than a guess, where's a good place to get A050 prices to compare?

Yokohama Motorsport Dealers.

Motorsport tyres require expertise. The tyre size, compound and tyre pressure you use can make a big difference to the performance of your car. As such they're sold exclusively through one Yokohama ADVAN Motorsports tyre dealer in each state. Yokohama motorsport dealers can advise competitors on how to set up their car and tyres for the best performance.

NSW Gordon Leven Tyres & More - Emu Plains (click here)

QLD Albion Tyres & More - Albion (click here)

SA North Terrace Tyres - Hackney (click here)

VIC/TAS Traction Tyres & More - Rowville (click here)

WA Wheels World Tyres & More - Osborne Park (click here)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429863-tyre-prices/#findComment-6960743
Share on other sites

Excellent reply (as in thorough)

So they are $475each for a 235/45/R17 or $660 more than a set of FZs and that's not even accountign for the free delivery with the FZs.

1240 for a set including delivery or 1900 then you still need delivery.

Like I said, they can be a bit slower when they are 35% cheaper and include delivery as well.

Other places may have them cheaper of course that was just the first one I checked.



Size: 235/45R17 M

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429863-tyre-prices/#findComment-6960750
Share on other sites

Excellent reply (as in thorough)

So they are $475each for a 235/45/R17 or $660 more than a set of FZs and that's not even accountign for the free delivery with the FZs.

1240 for a set including delivery or 1900 then you still need delivery.

Like I said, they can be a bit slower when they are 35% cheaper and include delivery as well.

Other places may have them cheaper of course that was just the first one I checked.

Size: 235/45R17 M

All I did was copy/paste it from the Yokohama website.

Not that I care but slower is usually cheaper and more durable.

The Yokie price usually includes fitting or delivery. Or both I guess if you take your rims to one of their dealers - which I take it includes one of their non motorsport dealers. That is what they offered me on my last set. I would have done this but I didnt want my Rays rims anywhere near my yocal Yokie tyre man so I got someone else to fit them.

Anyway this isnt about A050's. How do the Federals go in terms of heat cycling?

Edited by djr81
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429863-tyre-prices/#findComment-6960788
Share on other sites

Harry I see you were using the FZs earlier this year, are you still on them? IS that pre/post new compound? What did you think of them?

Car: 180SX
Weight: 1360kg incl driver
Power: 200rwkw (claimed by previous owner when i bought it)
Aero: none
Box: stock H Pattern
diff : 4.3 shimmed viscous LSD

Tyres: Federal FZ201
Lakeside: 205.5km/h
Time: 59.6 (05/04/2012 on Natsoft and QR's 2012 midweek sprint results)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429863-tyre-prices/#findComment-6961275
Share on other sites

I'd consider the kumho v70a's mate, faster tyre and i reckon you should be able to get them for simular money i got 18's for around 375 a tyre in medium.

our local suspension/tyre/tuning guru says they are quite easy to drive on and in cold weather (sub 15c) they will go all day, good life and they are fast. only a tiny bit off dunlops dz03 for half the money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429863-tyre-prices/#findComment-6961536
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...