Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They'd be track only, I have street rims and tyres.

What sort of rubber do you think I can get away with fitting on 8" fronts and 9" rears?

At the moment it's 235s all round.

Do you know what money the Kumho's run?

Those FZs still look to be good value to me.

They'd be track only, I have street rims and tyres.

What sort of rubber do you think I can get away with fitting on 8" fronts and 9" rears?

At the moment it's 235s all round.

Do you know what money the Kumho's run?

Those FZs still look to be good value to me.

Depending on your suspension setup, I would try and stay away from a staggered setup and run the same size front / rear.

Agreed Harry, so I'd like to hear from people who have used the new compound, I'm OK with it being slower than competing products because it's so much cheaper.

It's all relative. I didn't build up a Silvia and use RS-Rs because I'm trying to be the fastest guy out there lol

What do you think is a good bang for buck tyre Harry? What are you running?

Sorry, I've been away taking advantage of the great weather camping up at Rainbow beach.

I bought a set of the good/early FZ201M back in 2010 and used them up until I sold the 180SX in the middle of 2012. They were still setting PBs. I loved them. I would have bought another set without hesitation except the bloke who initially put me onto to them (who also drives an S13) told me they'd changed and were about 3 sec a lap slower now, and probably slower than RSR's! I've since heard nothing but bad things about how slow they are from everyone else who has bought a set of FZ201 recently.

We're in the same sort of boat - I'm just tracking a car for fun. Hey, it's a stock automatic Soarer. I just want a cheap set of semis. Don't have to be the fastest things in the world. The other tyres at the lower end of the market are Toyo R888 and Nitto NT01. They're both made by Toyo, in the same factory in Japan. They both have the same construction. They both have the same treadwear rating. They have different patterns. I used the R888 ont he 180SX immediately before I bought the FZ201. At the time I hated the R888's, but they turned out to be only a few tenths slower than the good FZ20'1s. It's just that the car felt loose on the R888 and glued to road on the FZ201's. So I priced them up and went with the NT01 on the off chance that they are better than R888. It was under $1200 delived for a set of 245/40 R18 NT01s. I haven't used them yet though.

But since I bought them a mate got hold of a set of 17" Hankook Z214 2 groove 'cheater slicks' for not much more than what I paid. These Z214 are cheaper than the Z221 which is true semi slick. They are also faster. If you don't need road legal rubber, these things are the best bang for buck at the moment by a long margin. They're probably the fastest tyre out there and also one of the cheapest.

surprisingly well I think. On cheapo road tyres (235/40R18 Federal 595SS and 265/35R18 Achilies ATR Sport 2) it ran 63.7 last time at Lakeside.

Totally stock apart from Tein S-Tech lowering coils (which I cut to be about 20mm lower again) and a HKS SLD. Everything else including the whole exhaust system, air filter, boost, brakes - everything are all standard. I fitted the factory optional Torsen LSD, if you want to count that as a mod. Only other non standard stuff is a seat and a wheel.

I have BC coilovers and the NT01s at home which I'll fit before the next track day. I'll be dissapointed if that doesn't get me 3 seconds over the shitty street tyres, which would put it solidly in the mid 60s. But we'll wait and see.

To put that in perspective, my 1250 kg 180SX which supposedly had 200rwkw and heaps of aftermarket suspension, R32 GTR brakes, cage etc, ran 59.8. on R888s.

Give it a go - they work alot better than people expect.

Bit of a blog on it here showing the progress in laptimes as I do one mod at a time - http://performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67288773-Shitbox-Soarer-street-track-project-sixty-second-slushbox&highlight=

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I’ve just finished fitting the timing belt on my RB25, following the standard procedure: rotate the crank twice, release the tensioner, then tighten it down. The belt feels tight, and you can see that clearly in the picture below I’ve heard some people say it’s actually better for the belt to be slightly loose rather than too tight, as excessive tension can lead to snapping. So that’s in the back of my mind. What I’m seeing is this:  • At idle, the belt looks fine.  • But when cranking and especially when revving (around 3–4,000 RPM), there’s a momentary flap/flex or flicker in the belt, which I’ve tried to capture in the video. So my question is — based on what you see, is this slight belt movement something you’d consider normal, or am I just being OCD? Could this amount of movement cause sync issues? Or is it just a harmless bit of flex under load?   from what I know belt flap and flex is expected when crank spins up and pull cam with it Would appreciate any thoughts or similar experiences.     IMG_7656.mov IMG_7657.mov
    • I've replaced the front brakes of my NA to 324 brembos and 350z calipers: i'm going for 225/40-18 up front and 245/35-18 in the back. I have Rays 7.5*19 ET35(225/35) in the front with 5mm spacers otherwise the calipers "lock up/ won't rotate". When i use the calculator i come up with 8*18 ET30 for 225/40...... but not sure i get problems with the calipers. Anyone riding around with 18 inch. that can confirm "that it'll fit"? In the back it's 7.5*9 ET30 (245/30) with the 5mm spacers, but there is no problem with the standard small brakes, so i want to take 8.5*18 ET25 (245/35).
    • Lol.. but then.. always come back to a JDM..
    • Glad to hear. If possible, get your tuner to check air's to make sure everything is still where it should be.
    • The problem with FB/Insta/Reddit etc comments relating to cars is simple. You get to ask a question once, and get one round of replies. For things that can actually be answered in a few lines of text, once, it's fine. After 6 hours, your original question is lost to the void. There are no follow ups, additional questions, anything. No project car is ever such a simple list of questions to ask. You need discussion.
×
×
  • Create New...