Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at an FM booster for a v36, found this on ebay. Has anyone purchased and used this product?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-V36-Tiida-Late-model-Elgrand-Maxima-Radio-FM-Band-Expander-18-MHz-/251314284295?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a837fa707&_uhb=1

Does it work well? Is there a better product on the market?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430050-fm-booster/
Share on other sites

So is there a reason why 18 is better than 20?

I'm guessing the argument is that it'll get you the most usable range since we're 88 - 108MHz and Japan's range is 76 - 90MHz.

So after the shift, an 18MHz expander gets you 94 - 108MHz.

A 10MHz expander, on the other hand, will get you the lower end of the Australian FM band, so from 86 - 100MHz but that's probably not for everyone.

Conversely, a 20MHz expander will get you 96 - 110MHz.

The better expander will be the one which covers the range you want most. I don't listen to the radio since nobody plays any progressive rock or decent heavy metal so screw them all. :domokun:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430050-fm-booster/#findComment-6968620
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...
  • 5 months later...

I know that these Nissan skyline v35 250gt have two cam position sensor bank one and two are located in the back of the engine by the firewall. How many crankshaft sensor does the car have and its location an also what is these two sensors bolted with one bolt in front of the engine with wires attach to it on the inside with oil on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430050-fm-booster/#findComment-7349721
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
×
×
  • Create New...