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Im looking at getting some swaybars for the 32gtst. it is becoming a track car, not a drifter, so i want to buy the right ones.

Selby looks good as i can order what i want.

However i dont know what to order.

Obviously blade adjustable, but what sizes front and rear for a good balance?

I know this subject has been covered (yes i searched a lot), but its basic info, for street use, and whiteline are different to selby.

I dont know if theres anything else relevant. Silvers neomax suspension, solid cradle bushes(thats another question, change? what to?), hicas gone, adjustable this and that.

Thanks.

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It's not hard. For really stiff result, put 27 adjustable on the front, 24 adjustable on the rear. You'll probably end up with the front one adjusted away from full stiff and the rear one at max stiffness. For less of a max stifness effort, 24 adjustable front and rear, with the rear probably set to the softer end and the front at the stiffer end. Although those recommendations will really be affected by the relative spring rates.

Realistically, unless you are a race team with budget, you cannot make this "correct" with just one setup anyway. Some will argue that the right way to set up suspension for the circuit is to use the lightest bars you can. The bars are just used for tuning the handling balance. The overall roll resistance is obtained by selecting stiff arse springs. But even then that's a hassle, because bumpy tracks and smooth tracks require different compromises between spring and ani-roll bars (note there's no such thing as a swaybar on a car that's not towing a trailer). And driver preference has a lot to do with it too. You may have two cars in the same team (so the same technical backup on both, with the same engineer) and the two drivers might end up with opposite spring/bar setups and still set similar times. Make them swap cars and they will both go slower.

Yes ill always be a noob racer, but im getting enjoyment from messing with my car. you know what i mean. ;)

So 27 f 24 r is a good all round starting point

Ok, basically in general front stiffer than rear

Right?

haha good point....the quality has never quite been the same since they started manufacturing offshore :(

from memory Roy had some trouble with whiteline bars on this 32

correct, he went to Cuscos.

Nope, and sometimes onshore they would measure from the wrong side of the bar bwahahaha

Yuh, my experience mirrors the above. Front and rear 24mm bars just fell onto my R32. Only hassle with the rear one was it would have helped me to get the car further off the ground before starting work! Granted, I had to put the chassis mount bushes for the front bar onto the wire wheel to remove enough material to make them fit into the D brackets, but I don't take that sort of obstacle seriously.

Sorry to hijack thread but also interested in getting some sway bars down the track..

No drifting.. :)

Question is, how can I identify what sway bars are already ON the car? They look stock to me and can't find any markings.

Edit: Maybe get some vernier calliper's and measure how thick they are?

Edited by Zrobe

You can just measure the thickness, but that might not tell the whole story. The stock front bars on R32s are hollow, hence they are much lighter than a similar sized solid and also somewhat less stiff than a similar sized solid. It is not possible to know exactly how thick the walls are on these hollow bars though, so it's not possible to calculate hoe stiff they are relative to a different sized aftermarket bar. If you have or can make a rig to test how stiff they are then you can compare them. Making such a rig is not super difficult, it's just a lot more work than most people are willing to put into it.

FWIW, my (originally) auto R32 (also a 1993) had a 16mm solid rear and a 22mm hollow front.

You can just measure the thickness, but that might not tell the whole story. The stock front bars on R32s are hollow, hence they are much lighter than a similar sized solid and also somewhat less stiff than a similar sized solid. It is not possible to know exactly how thick the walls are on these hollow bars though, so it's not possible to calculate hoe stiff they are relative to a different sized aftermarket bar. If you have or can make a rig to test how stiff they are then you can compare them. Making such a rig is not super difficult, it's just a lot more work than most people are willing to put into it.

FWIW, my (originally) auto R32 (also a 1993) had a 16mm solid rear and a 22mm hollow front.

Okay, no worries thanks heaps.

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