Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking at getting some swaybars for the 32gtst. it is becoming a track car, not a drifter, so i want to buy the right ones.

Selby looks good as i can order what i want.

However i dont know what to order.

Obviously blade adjustable, but what sizes front and rear for a good balance?

I know this subject has been covered (yes i searched a lot), but its basic info, for street use, and whiteline are different to selby.

I dont know if theres anything else relevant. Silvers neomax suspension, solid cradle bushes(thats another question, change? what to?), hicas gone, adjustable this and that.

Thanks.

post-89755-0-93179700-1376804838_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430436-r32-gtst-swaybars/
Share on other sites

It's not hard. For really stiff result, put 27 adjustable on the front, 24 adjustable on the rear. You'll probably end up with the front one adjusted away from full stiff and the rear one at max stiffness. For less of a max stifness effort, 24 adjustable front and rear, with the rear probably set to the softer end and the front at the stiffer end. Although those recommendations will really be affected by the relative spring rates.

Realistically, unless you are a race team with budget, you cannot make this "correct" with just one setup anyway. Some will argue that the right way to set up suspension for the circuit is to use the lightest bars you can. The bars are just used for tuning the handling balance. The overall roll resistance is obtained by selecting stiff arse springs. But even then that's a hassle, because bumpy tracks and smooth tracks require different compromises between spring and ani-roll bars (note there's no such thing as a swaybar on a car that's not towing a trailer). And driver preference has a lot to do with it too. You may have two cars in the same team (so the same technical backup on both, with the same engineer) and the two drivers might end up with opposite spring/bar setups and still set similar times. Make them swap cars and they will both go slower.

Yes ill always be a noob racer, but im getting enjoyment from messing with my car. you know what i mean. ;)

So 27 f 24 r is a good all round starting point

Ok, basically in general front stiffer than rear

Right?

haha good point....the quality has never quite been the same since they started manufacturing offshore :(

from memory Roy had some trouble with whiteline bars on this 32

correct, he went to Cuscos.

Nope, and sometimes onshore they would measure from the wrong side of the bar bwahahaha

Yuh, my experience mirrors the above. Front and rear 24mm bars just fell onto my R32. Only hassle with the rear one was it would have helped me to get the car further off the ground before starting work! Granted, I had to put the chassis mount bushes for the front bar onto the wire wheel to remove enough material to make them fit into the D brackets, but I don't take that sort of obstacle seriously.

Sorry to hijack thread but also interested in getting some sway bars down the track..

No drifting.. :)

Question is, how can I identify what sway bars are already ON the car? They look stock to me and can't find any markings.

Edit: Maybe get some vernier calliper's and measure how thick they are?

Edited by Zrobe

You can just measure the thickness, but that might not tell the whole story. The stock front bars on R32s are hollow, hence they are much lighter than a similar sized solid and also somewhat less stiff than a similar sized solid. It is not possible to know exactly how thick the walls are on these hollow bars though, so it's not possible to calculate hoe stiff they are relative to a different sized aftermarket bar. If you have or can make a rig to test how stiff they are then you can compare them. Making such a rig is not super difficult, it's just a lot more work than most people are willing to put into it.

FWIW, my (originally) auto R32 (also a 1993) had a 16mm solid rear and a 22mm hollow front.

You can just measure the thickness, but that might not tell the whole story. The stock front bars on R32s are hollow, hence they are much lighter than a similar sized solid and also somewhat less stiff than a similar sized solid. It is not possible to know exactly how thick the walls are on these hollow bars though, so it's not possible to calculate hoe stiff they are relative to a different sized aftermarket bar. If you have or can make a rig to test how stiff they are then you can compare them. Making such a rig is not super difficult, it's just a lot more work than most people are willing to put into it.

FWIW, my (originally) auto R32 (also a 1993) had a 16mm solid rear and a 22mm hollow front.

Okay, no worries thanks heaps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...