Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Im upgrading my front and rear diffs with Nismo gt Lsd pros on r33 gtr v spec.

Now the front is straight forward with 1.5 way .

The rear im getting a non v spec housing and drive shafts and bearings......

My question is for mostley street driven car with a few dargs a year and maybe 1 or 2 track days a year would I go 2 way or 1.5 way?

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430508-2-way-or-15-way-nismo-gt-lsd-pro/
Share on other sites

If it was me

Front = Quaiffe Helical LSD.

Rear = Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way... new carbon model if the budget stretches that far.

Personally I think the 2 way is too aggressive for anything on the street, and I'm currently breaking in a nismo gt pro 1.5way which drives really nicely :)

thanks for that Infamous I thought about Quaife I heard good thing about nismo + diff shop recommend nismo(can be repaired easily if it needs to be) and wanted to stick to one brand I could not find a rear Quaife one for a good price ($1700 just jap).

so 1.5 way is the way to go thanks mate

If it was me

Front = Quaiffe Helical LSD.

Rear = Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way... new carbon model if the budget stretches that far.

Personally I think the 2 way is too aggressive for anything on the street, and I'm currently breaking in a nismo gt pro 1.5way which drives really nicely :)

I also have the same setup. The GT PRO is currently set to medium. I think it's a little too aggressive atm. I'll prob back it off soon enough. Where is your's set to?

The rear definately changes how the car turn's and powers out of corners... In a good way ;)

Piggaz, running the lowest setting for now... good so far!

A couple of clunks when it was cold, but once warm all good, just have to get used to it 'skipping' haha

I had a few other things done in the rear of the car to tighten it all up (bushes, new tailshaft etc), but it's definitely night & day how it comes out of corners now massive improvement for something I never considered as being 'bad'.

Piggaz, running the lowest setting for now... good so far!

A couple of clunks when it was cold, but once warm all good, just have to get used to it 'skipping' haha

I had a few other things done in the rear of the car to tighten it all up (bushes, new tailshaft etc), but it's definitely night & day how it comes out of corners now massive improvement for something I never considered as being 'bad'.

Did you do the diff bushes also? I chucked a set of alloy ones in there. Transmits a bit of noise through the cabin, but nothing really to whinge about. Definately improved the shift feel also!

OP. I would think a 2 way might be a bit TOO much.

Nismo diff bushes (reinforced rubber), redid the subframe with whiteline bushes also and the CF one-piece tailshaft.

Removed every bit of slop & random bang/clangs that the rear end had.

I get some noise coming into the cabin, but it's not bad... I kinda like it, like engine surround sound :D

+1 on shifts feeling better

1.5 way here as well. Mine was on the softest setting.

it was tight to start but after 1,200kms of driving and giving it a solid flogging it settled down (front settled much faster, around 400kms) and would only skip on mid level turns on concrete and in tight carpark turns. If you don't want any at all just add Penrite Friction modifier, that'll stop any chatter totally.

With a Nismo front/rear - get ready for some 4WD powersliding, just have to bet into a corner & tap brakes/lift off the throttle and turn, let it glide and then stomp the pedal to the floor and have some fun :thumbsup:

f you've modified the transfer case you'll pull even harder out of the corners again.

IMO after having done Transfer case then Front then Rear diffs... I'd do that again before chasing power in a GT-R, certainly made the car so much more enjoyable to take on hill runs

Only problem with doing all of that is not matter how i threw the car around I could no longer get the car to do 4WD helli's like it would with stock diffs front/rear. Just something odd i noticed.

1.5 way here as well. Mine was on the softest setting.

it was tight to start but after 1,200kms of driving and giving it a solid flogging it settled down (front settled much faster, around 400kms) and would only skip on mid level turns on concrete and in tight carpark turns. If you don't want any at all just add Penrite Friction modifier, that'll stop any chatter totally.

With a Nismo front/rear - get ready for some 4WD powersliding, just have to bet into a corner & tap brakes/lift off the throttle and turn, let it glide and then stomp the pedal to the floor and have some fun :thumbsup:

f you've modified the transfer case you'll pull even harder out of the corners again.

IMO after having done Transfer case then Front then Rear diffs... I'd do that again before chasing power in a GT-R, certainly made the car so much more enjoyable to take on hill runs

Only problem with doing all of that is not matter how i threw the car around I could no longer get the car to do 4WD helli's like it would with stock diffs front/rear. Just something odd i noticed.

What mods did you do to the transfer case?

More plates. Allows more front drive.

This. Although I believe maybe pressure as well?

More lockup, sends power forward better... Drive one with the mod and one without and you really notice a difference in minutes it's that obvious

Also they are on average 15years old and often overlooked in terms of servicing/replacing etc

This. Although I believe maybe pressure as well?

More lockup, sends power forward better... Drive one with the mod and one without and you really notice a difference in minutes it's that obvious

Also they are on average 15years old and often overlooked in terms of servicing/replacing etc

May I ask you how you got it serviced ? I only know one kit to date and its on gtr.co,uk selling for about 1000$..

Also, part my english ( second language), what do you mean by 4wd helli's ?? previous post. With all the mods done on a proper -5's setup with Star spec Z2 tires, I still seems to spin a bit in acceleration so I'm interesting in doing the rear diff and maybe transfer case in order to gain more traction.

Oh and , Nismo seems to be making the best diff isnt it ? I was thinking about the GT as well. vs. the cusco

Edited by cobrAA

I'm also upgrading the front diff to a nismo 1.5 after getting the sump modified. Is it also necessary to upgrade the rear diff also? Ill only be wanting to make 350aw/kw. And if so should I get nismo for the rear or another brand?

Depends. Put the front in and see how it goes.

When I put my front in, my rear started single pegging. However, my car is a vspec, so maybe the attesa computers had a hissy fit.

May I ask you how you got it serviced ? I only know one kit to date and its on gtr.co,uk selling for about 1000$..

Also, part my english ( second language), what do you mean by 4wd helli's ?? previous post. With all the mods done on a proper -5's setup with Star spec Z2 tires, I still seems to spin a bit in acceleration so I'm interesting in doing the rear diff and maybe transfer case in order to gain more traction.

Oh and , Nismo seems to be making the best diff isnt it ? I was thinking about the GT as well. vs. the cusco

^ kinda like that, but with stock diffs i could get it going around and around as if i was on a 50c coin. Post diffs, it would only get to about 3/4 around and stop... Was kinda gay in that respect.

Put it this way - I could launch @ 8200rpm with 350rwkw or whatever and there would be minimal wheelspin with 285/18 AD08s, it would just grip and fly outta the hole.

There was no wheelspin 2nd/3rd at all.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...