Jump to content
SAU Community

2 Way Or 1.5 Way Nismo Gt Lsd Pro

GTRB27
 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRB27 Contributor

GTRB27

Posted
Posted

Hi all

Im upgrading my front and rear diffs with Nismo gt Lsd pros on r33 gtr v spec.

Now the front is straight forward with 1.5 way .

The rear im getting a non v spec housing and drive shafts and bearings......

My question is for mostley street driven car with a few dargs a year and maybe 1 or 2 track days a year would I go 2 way or 1.5 way?

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430508-2-way-or-15-way-nismo-gt-lsd-pro/
Share on other sites
infamous_t Veteran

infamous_t

Posted
Posted

If it was me

Front = Quaiffe Helical LSD.

Rear = Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way... new carbon model if the budget stretches that far.

Personally I think the 2 way is too aggressive for anything on the street, and I'm currently breaking in a nismo gt pro 1.5way which drives really nicely :)

GTRB27 Contributor

GTRB27

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for that Infamous I thought about Quaife I heard good thing about nismo + diff shop recommend nismo(can be repaired easily if it needs to be) and wanted to stick to one brand I could not find a rear Quaife one for a good price ($1700 just jap).

so 1.5 way is the way to go thanks mate

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

If it was me

Front = Quaiffe Helical LSD.

Rear = Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way... new carbon model if the budget stretches that far.

Personally I think the 2 way is too aggressive for anything on the street, and I'm currently breaking in a nismo gt pro 1.5way which drives really nicely :)

I also have the same setup. The GT PRO is currently set to medium. I think it's a little too aggressive atm. I'll prob back it off soon enough. Where is your's set to?

The rear definately changes how the car turn's and powers out of corners... In a good way ;)

infamous_t Veteran

infamous_t

Posted
Posted

Piggaz, running the lowest setting for now... good so far!

A couple of clunks when it was cold, but once warm all good, just have to get used to it 'skipping' haha

I had a few other things done in the rear of the car to tighten it all up (bushes, new tailshaft etc), but it's definitely night & day how it comes out of corners now massive improvement for something I never considered as being 'bad'.

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Piggaz, running the lowest setting for now... good so far!

A couple of clunks when it was cold, but once warm all good, just have to get used to it 'skipping' haha

I had a few other things done in the rear of the car to tighten it all up (bushes, new tailshaft etc), but it's definitely night & day how it comes out of corners now massive improvement for something I never considered as being 'bad'.

Did you do the diff bushes also? I chucked a set of alloy ones in there. Transmits a bit of noise through the cabin, but nothing really to whinge about. Definately improved the shift feel also!

OP. I would think a 2 way might be a bit TOO much.

infamous_t Veteran

infamous_t

Posted
Posted

Nismo diff bushes (reinforced rubber), redid the subframe with whiteline bushes also and the CF one-piece tailshaft.

Removed every bit of slop & random bang/clangs that the rear end had.

I get some noise coming into the cabin, but it's not bad... I kinda like it, like engine surround sound :D

+1 on shifts feeling better

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

1.5 way here as well. Mine was on the softest setting.

it was tight to start but after 1,200kms of driving and giving it a solid flogging it settled down (front settled much faster, around 400kms) and would only skip on mid level turns on concrete and in tight carpark turns. If you don't want any at all just add Penrite Friction modifier, that'll stop any chatter totally.

With a Nismo front/rear - get ready for some 4WD powersliding, just have to bet into a corner & tap brakes/lift off the throttle and turn, let it glide and then stomp the pedal to the floor and have some fun :thumbsup:

f you've modified the transfer case you'll pull even harder out of the corners again.

IMO after having done Transfer case then Front then Rear diffs... I'd do that again before chasing power in a GT-R, certainly made the car so much more enjoyable to take on hill runs

Only problem with doing all of that is not matter how i threw the car around I could no longer get the car to do 4WD helli's like it would with stock diffs front/rear. Just something odd i noticed.

Chris32R Proficient

Chris32R

Posted
Posted

1.5 way here as well. Mine was on the softest setting.

it was tight to start but after 1,200kms of driving and giving it a solid flogging it settled down (front settled much faster, around 400kms) and would only skip on mid level turns on concrete and in tight carpark turns. If you don't want any at all just add Penrite Friction modifier, that'll stop any chatter totally.

With a Nismo front/rear - get ready for some 4WD powersliding, just have to bet into a corner & tap brakes/lift off the throttle and turn, let it glide and then stomp the pedal to the floor and have some fun :thumbsup:

f you've modified the transfer case you'll pull even harder out of the corners again.

IMO after having done Transfer case then Front then Rear diffs... I'd do that again before chasing power in a GT-R, certainly made the car so much more enjoyable to take on hill runs

Only problem with doing all of that is not matter how i threw the car around I could no longer get the car to do 4WD helli's like it would with stock diffs front/rear. Just something odd i noticed.

What mods did you do to the transfer case?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

More plates. Allows more front drive.

This. Although I believe maybe pressure as well?

More lockup, sends power forward better... Drive one with the mod and one without and you really notice a difference in minutes it's that obvious

Also they are on average 15years old and often overlooked in terms of servicing/replacing etc

cobrAA Mentor

cobrAA

Posted
Posted (edited)

This. Although I believe maybe pressure as well?

More lockup, sends power forward better... Drive one with the mod and one without and you really notice a difference in minutes it's that obvious

Also they are on average 15years old and often overlooked in terms of servicing/replacing etc

May I ask you how you got it serviced ? I only know one kit to date and its on gtr.co,uk selling for about 1000$..

Also, part my english ( second language), what do you mean by 4wd helli's ?? previous post. With all the mods done on a proper -5's setup with Star spec Z2 tires, I still seems to spin a bit in acceleration so I'm interesting in doing the rear diff and maybe transfer case in order to gain more traction.

Oh and , Nismo seems to be making the best diff isnt it ? I was thinking about the GT as well. vs. the cusco

Edited by cobrAA
Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

I'm also upgrading the front diff to a nismo 1.5 after getting the sump modified. Is it also necessary to upgrade the rear diff also? Ill only be wanting to make 350aw/kw. And if so should I get nismo for the rear or another brand?

Depends. Put the front in and see how it goes.

When I put my front in, my rear started single pegging. However, my car is a vspec, so maybe the attesa computers had a hissy fit.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

May I ask you how you got it serviced ? I only know one kit to date and its on gtr.co,uk selling for about 1000$..

Also, part my english ( second language), what do you mean by 4wd helli's ?? previous post. With all the mods done on a proper -5's setup with Star spec Z2 tires, I still seems to spin a bit in acceleration so I'm interesting in doing the rear diff and maybe transfer case in order to gain more traction.

Oh and , Nismo seems to be making the best diff isnt it ? I was thinking about the GT as well. vs. the cusco

^ kinda like that, but with stock diffs i could get it going around and around as if i was on a 50c coin. Post diffs, it would only get to about 3/4 around and stop... Was kinda gay in that respect.

Put it this way - I could launch @ 8200rpm with 350rwkw or whatever and there would be minimal wheelspin with 285/18 AD08s, it would just grip and fly outta the hole.

There was no wheelspin 2nd/3rd at all.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...