Jump to content
SAU Community

2 Way Or 1.5 Way Nismo Gt Lsd Pro

GTRB27
 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRB27 Contributor

GTRB27

Posted
Posted

Hi all

Im upgrading my front and rear diffs with Nismo gt Lsd pros on r33 gtr v spec.

Now the front is straight forward with 1.5 way .

The rear im getting a non v spec housing and drive shafts and bearings......

My question is for mostley street driven car with a few dargs a year and maybe 1 or 2 track days a year would I go 2 way or 1.5 way?

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430508-2-way-or-15-way-nismo-gt-lsd-pro/
Share on other sites
infamous_t Veteran

infamous_t

Posted
Posted

If it was me

Front = Quaiffe Helical LSD.

Rear = Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way... new carbon model if the budget stretches that far.

Personally I think the 2 way is too aggressive for anything on the street, and I'm currently breaking in a nismo gt pro 1.5way which drives really nicely :)

GTRB27 Contributor

GTRB27

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for that Infamous I thought about Quaife I heard good thing about nismo + diff shop recommend nismo(can be repaired easily if it needs to be) and wanted to stick to one brand I could not find a rear Quaife one for a good price ($1700 just jap).

so 1.5 way is the way to go thanks mate

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

If it was me

Front = Quaiffe Helical LSD.

Rear = Nismo GT Pro 1.5 way... new carbon model if the budget stretches that far.

Personally I think the 2 way is too aggressive for anything on the street, and I'm currently breaking in a nismo gt pro 1.5way which drives really nicely :)

I also have the same setup. The GT PRO is currently set to medium. I think it's a little too aggressive atm. I'll prob back it off soon enough. Where is your's set to?

The rear definately changes how the car turn's and powers out of corners... In a good way ;)

infamous_t Veteran

infamous_t

Posted
Posted

Piggaz, running the lowest setting for now... good so far!

A couple of clunks when it was cold, but once warm all good, just have to get used to it 'skipping' haha

I had a few other things done in the rear of the car to tighten it all up (bushes, new tailshaft etc), but it's definitely night & day how it comes out of corners now massive improvement for something I never considered as being 'bad'.

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Piggaz, running the lowest setting for now... good so far!

A couple of clunks when it was cold, but once warm all good, just have to get used to it 'skipping' haha

I had a few other things done in the rear of the car to tighten it all up (bushes, new tailshaft etc), but it's definitely night & day how it comes out of corners now massive improvement for something I never considered as being 'bad'.

Did you do the diff bushes also? I chucked a set of alloy ones in there. Transmits a bit of noise through the cabin, but nothing really to whinge about. Definately improved the shift feel also!

OP. I would think a 2 way might be a bit TOO much.

infamous_t Veteran

infamous_t

Posted
Posted

Nismo diff bushes (reinforced rubber), redid the subframe with whiteline bushes also and the CF one-piece tailshaft.

Removed every bit of slop & random bang/clangs that the rear end had.

I get some noise coming into the cabin, but it's not bad... I kinda like it, like engine surround sound :D

+1 on shifts feeling better

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

1.5 way here as well. Mine was on the softest setting.

it was tight to start but after 1,200kms of driving and giving it a solid flogging it settled down (front settled much faster, around 400kms) and would only skip on mid level turns on concrete and in tight carpark turns. If you don't want any at all just add Penrite Friction modifier, that'll stop any chatter totally.

With a Nismo front/rear - get ready for some 4WD powersliding, just have to bet into a corner & tap brakes/lift off the throttle and turn, let it glide and then stomp the pedal to the floor and have some fun :thumbsup:

f you've modified the transfer case you'll pull even harder out of the corners again.

IMO after having done Transfer case then Front then Rear diffs... I'd do that again before chasing power in a GT-R, certainly made the car so much more enjoyable to take on hill runs

Only problem with doing all of that is not matter how i threw the car around I could no longer get the car to do 4WD helli's like it would with stock diffs front/rear. Just something odd i noticed.

Chris32R Proficient

Chris32R

Posted
Posted

1.5 way here as well. Mine was on the softest setting.

it was tight to start but after 1,200kms of driving and giving it a solid flogging it settled down (front settled much faster, around 400kms) and would only skip on mid level turns on concrete and in tight carpark turns. If you don't want any at all just add Penrite Friction modifier, that'll stop any chatter totally.

With a Nismo front/rear - get ready for some 4WD powersliding, just have to bet into a corner & tap brakes/lift off the throttle and turn, let it glide and then stomp the pedal to the floor and have some fun :thumbsup:

f you've modified the transfer case you'll pull even harder out of the corners again.

IMO after having done Transfer case then Front then Rear diffs... I'd do that again before chasing power in a GT-R, certainly made the car so much more enjoyable to take on hill runs

Only problem with doing all of that is not matter how i threw the car around I could no longer get the car to do 4WD helli's like it would with stock diffs front/rear. Just something odd i noticed.

What mods did you do to the transfer case?

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

More plates. Allows more front drive.

This. Although I believe maybe pressure as well?

More lockup, sends power forward better... Drive one with the mod and one without and you really notice a difference in minutes it's that obvious

Also they are on average 15years old and often overlooked in terms of servicing/replacing etc

cobrAA Mentor

cobrAA

Posted
Posted (edited)

This. Although I believe maybe pressure as well?

More lockup, sends power forward better... Drive one with the mod and one without and you really notice a difference in minutes it's that obvious

Also they are on average 15years old and often overlooked in terms of servicing/replacing etc

May I ask you how you got it serviced ? I only know one kit to date and its on gtr.co,uk selling for about 1000$..

Also, part my english ( second language), what do you mean by 4wd helli's ?? previous post. With all the mods done on a proper -5's setup with Star spec Z2 tires, I still seems to spin a bit in acceleration so I'm interesting in doing the rear diff and maybe transfer case in order to gain more traction.

Oh and , Nismo seems to be making the best diff isnt it ? I was thinking about the GT as well. vs. the cusco

Edited by cobrAA
Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

I'm also upgrading the front diff to a nismo 1.5 after getting the sump modified. Is it also necessary to upgrade the rear diff also? Ill only be wanting to make 350aw/kw. And if so should I get nismo for the rear or another brand?

Depends. Put the front in and see how it goes.

When I put my front in, my rear started single pegging. However, my car is a vspec, so maybe the attesa computers had a hissy fit.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

May I ask you how you got it serviced ? I only know one kit to date and its on gtr.co,uk selling for about 1000$..

Also, part my english ( second language), what do you mean by 4wd helli's ?? previous post. With all the mods done on a proper -5's setup with Star spec Z2 tires, I still seems to spin a bit in acceleration so I'm interesting in doing the rear diff and maybe transfer case in order to gain more traction.

Oh and , Nismo seems to be making the best diff isnt it ? I was thinking about the GT as well. vs. the cusco

^ kinda like that, but with stock diffs i could get it going around and around as if i was on a 50c coin. Post diffs, it would only get to about 3/4 around and stop... Was kinda gay in that respect.

Put it this way - I could launch @ 8200rpm with 350rwkw or whatever and there would be minimal wheelspin with 285/18 AD08s, it would just grip and fly outta the hole.

There was no wheelspin 2nd/3rd at all.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...