Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, i'm new to this forum and relatively new in the Sky land...

My project consist in a Skyline HCR32 (GTS-t) '93 with few modifications.

Maybe the bigger one was de LHD conversion.

I bougth it close to stock, just spoiler removed and front strut bar.

Others mods made after that are:

- Hicas removed

- Front mounted IC

- Apexi+custom CAI

- Turbo upgrade GT2060RS (with ATP T3 turbine housing)

- Greddy profect e01 boost controller

- JIC coilovers

- Work Meister S1 17"

This car is Trackday and rides oriented, but other uses are not discarded (like drift).

ok right, stop boring you with my poor english and share some pics... (edit: i'think can't attach files yet...)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430531-lhd-td-hcr32/
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

About two month after rising boost up to 1 bar (knowing the possible consequences), i get blue smoke everywhere...

So, looking here and there for best turbo upgrade option (here don't have many), finally i bought a Garrett GT2860RS with ATP T3 exhaust housing (which have 5-bolt ford pattern flange) and an adapter 5-bolt -> V-Band with internal wastegate port.

This way i can keep the exhaust manifold and just fabricate the downpipe. But in the future i'm thinking run an external wg setup.

post-118185-0-48326800-1388407257_thumb.jpg

Then i reuse the original wastegate valve...

post-118185-0-20851300-1388407553_thumb.jpgpost-118185-0-65853500-1388407559_thumb.jpgpost-118185-0-50148000-1388407568_thumb.jpg

Bought a whater&oil line kit for this turbo & RB20

post-118185-0-04509700-1388408937_thumb.jpg

And the downpipe fabrication...

post-118185-0-76669600-1388407947_thumb.jpgpost-118185-0-15262100-1388407841_thumb.jpgpost-118185-0-60088800-1388407623_thumb.jpgpost-118185-0-55078600-1388407824_thumb.jpg

I can provide any details (or more pics) about this upgrade, just ask :)

Edited by DLP_HCR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430531-lhd-td-hcr32/#findComment-7156577
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Thanks mate!

Yes, very unsafe, without the bar it flex a lot, i think in a crash will oppose force at all. So you are right, the cage (with lateral bars) is a must, but here is not too easy to find a P&P one (if not impossible), and cage makers are barely existent (and good)... this is a small country too far from the rest of the world ! but i'm on that...

I have not had a chance to weigh it up yet, but i think that will be close to 10Kg with the polycarbonate.

BTW, this are spare doors, so i will keep the originals intact ;-)

Edited by DLP_HCR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430531-lhd-td-hcr32/#findComment-7231702
Share on other sites

In Australia our racing is organised by CAMS.

They set all the rules ans regulations, they have the requirements of roll cages on their web site.

If you can weld well, maybe you could make your own, and use the guide to make a safe cage.

http://docs.cams.com.au/Manual/GeneralRequirements/GQ11-Schedule-J-2014-1.pdf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430531-lhd-td-hcr32/#findComment-7231893
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

about a month ago i blew my rb20, so... rb25det swap FTW!

i bought a 25 S2 from a local JDM importer shop. Local but still thousands of miles from me...

so,...big was my surprise when i take the gearbox apart and saw this... :)

post-118185-0-79347000-1400301409_thumb.jpg post-118185-0-27286700-1400301393_thumb.jpg

Front face intake plenum installation....

post-118185-0-15061800-1400301397_thumb.jpg post-118185-0-40310500-1400301401_thumb.jpg

So far so looking good :)

post-118185-0-82299400-1400301405_thumb.jpg

I will reuse from rb20 the ecu (nistuned), harness (except injectors). and spark coils / ignitor...

Edited by DLP_HCR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430531-lhd-td-hcr32/#findComment-7285504
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Re-routing the water to bypass the heater...

In every forum i've seen, ppl just eliminate the heater making a bypass between the two hoses that go through the firewall. But in that way, the water will pass through it and not through the cooler (the easiest way). I think forcing the water pass only through the oil cooler is a better way and more similar to the oem flow design.

post-118185-0-57680700-1401739418_thumb.jpg

Another wired idea: reusing the oem cross pipe with the front face intake :-|

post-118185-0-69702500-1401739442_thumb.jpgpost-118185-0-47459200-1401739479_thumb.jpg

just cuting and rotating should be ok...isn't?

fmic...

post-118185-0-29128700-1401739392_thumb.jpg

Most of work done...

post-118185-0-93104200-1401739371_thumb.jpg

Need to finish the inyectors harness and transmision mount...

post-118185-0-55561500-1401739461_thumb.jpg

post-118185-0-96113900-1401740528_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430531-lhd-td-hcr32/#findComment-7300934
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...