Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mind you if OP was worried about what is sensible he wouldn't be trying to fit 10" wide wheels on the front of his car - haha!

But if he wants to keep the tyre size "safe" and "legal" in relation to his wheels then he would have to run a 255/35R18 tyre on the front however I fear this may lead to both the rubbing and the scrubbing.

I appreciate what Yokohama says however it seems the weight of evidence suggest they may be incorrect there is huge amounts of people running smaller tyres and having zero negative effects I never had a problem street or track

I never said it was 'legal' if you want to call it that merely pointing out its easy to achieve if that's what he wants to do

Edited by alr33x

Ive seen heaps of 10" wide wheels on the front of gts-t.

Here is a nice find I saw the other day on boostloosin

1995_Nissan_Skyline_Hr33_Gts_t_6768219.j

1995_Nissan_Skyline_Hr33_Gts_t_6768221.j

235 wide tyres, doesnt specify the sidewall but they are federals so shouldnt be too hard to go work out.

http://www.boostcruising.com.au/forums/index.php?showtopic=2261507&s=e7067997dba08b249c458112f7c0022e

Hi guys,

Thanks very much for all the input, I wasnt expecting this many responses so quickly.

So ill start from the top.

Frosty: the actual trye was interefring with the guard in the wheel arch, mostly on the sides. So I could angle it in at the top, get the wheel into the guard, but when I tryed straightening it to allign with the hub and studs, the tyre edges at about 10 and 2 oclock would hit the guard.

That was with the lowered coilover though. I could get it on with stock suspension, but when driving, it rubs the tyre.

GTSBoy: I agree, removing the bottom joining point on the suspension just to fit the tyre/wheel is a BULLSHIT outcome, and not one I would like in all honesty.

Duncan: Sorry I forgot to mention it is a GTST

Gho5t: Selling the wheels and starting afresh is what I would do if i were keeping the car, but my mate buying it has his heart set on these wheels, so pretty much, I just gotta get them to a point where they fit and dont rub, and it it isnt my problem anymore.

Hank Scorpio: Please refer above, if it were mine, then as I said, I would cut my losses, sell up what I got, and start again to achieve Form < function. But doing that is my absolute last resort, as old mate is dead keen on these oversized, deepdished nightmare wheels haha

So after reading the replies last night, and after swapping the rears with the stocks, I tryed again. The two front wheels are 225/45/18's stretched, but just I have just hust had them sitting there as I had the stockys on, so last night I did what feel likes the 50th tyre change this week, and put those on the back........no rubbing anymore! Stoked. But, that is with the stock suspension. Does anyone reckon I should even bother trying the coilovers again, or am I wasting my time?

Camber is not fully raked yet, so I reckon I still have another degree to degree and a half to play with, but if I put the coilovers on and it still doesnt fit, then pretty much, I think im likely gonna have a mental breakdwon, tell my mate him and his new car can go to hell, and turn it into a pile of black charred rubble haha (well maybe not, but thats about where my level of frustration is at)

I anticipate I will have many more questions if and when I get around to the front.

Thanks very much for all the input thus far, its always good to have someone to bounce ideas off, and talk to when times get tough. Lifelines mechanical prowess just wasnt cutting it. :)

Cheers guys!

Why you would want all that work and Weight of getting a 10inch rim under their and then go and whack a 225 tyre on it is beyond me, Is it for looks? I find I'm always chasing more grip and less weight especially unsprung this just seems the opposite. To the OP you may take a hit on selling the rims that don't fit but its your best outcome for moving this car on, and that size rim should sell pretty easily

sorry dude posted this at the same time as you. If he's got his heart set on them maybe sell them and buy same wheels in a different offset.

Edited by PRO_32

Im hearing your logic PRO_32, and it makes complete sense to me what your saying, but I dont have the time to go through the whole process of selling the old wheels/tyres and procuring new ones, as he is leaving town on Monday.

The only reason I got a 225 on there is try get a lower profile so stuff dont scrub.

Mates probably dont let mates run stretched 225s on a 10" rim, but hes adamant thats what he wants, he is Japanese after all.

All I want is this car out of my life.

As I said if he had the time, and didnt decide to tell me he was leaving 4 days ago, I would start afresh, and get something is a little more functional, but unless he agrees to that, then that isnt really a viable option at this particular point in time.

If they definietly dont fit, and I cant make this work, then that is the last resort, in this instance.

God help me haha

if your doing all this to sell to a mate could i perhaps suggest borrow stockies or buy em they are cheap as anyway throw em on get rwc make the sale let him have the headache why your going to all this effort is beyond me.

Already did that, I had the original stockies on there and got some fresh rubber to sort out a roady, told him that the tyres/wheels are no good and not legal, now he has to leave town all of a sudden, so hes in a big rush to get these humungo wheels on before he dices. Its complicated....hes a bit of a delicate genius....if you get my drift. All I have to have to do, is work out a way to make these wheels fit wiithout them rubbing, hes drives off into the sunset, and then this car is no longer my headache. It cant come soon enough at this rate :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Let me guess, mate wants dish!

Whatever.... Get right rims with right tyre size and have more grip than fitting major dished rims for just the look...

Or get wide body and fit the rims you cosmetically want with the grip that resembles what the rim width is capable of...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...