Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

so i have a power fc for my s15, im looking into the R35 GTR MAF. i know there are more modern computers out there, but this is what i have and i would rather make this work.

so i have been reading heaps about the R35 maf's and their capabilities, they are cheaper then the z32's and more responsive suposably.

there is also this option

http://www.pmas-maf.com/mass-air-sensors.php

i see a few people have dabbled with the r35 and the HPX, but i cant seem to find any data for the R35 MAF.

the hpx website supplies flow rates vs voltages.

there is also nistune who put up this

http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2428

however it would seem that the HPX will support a much higher HP number then the r35.

myself personally would prefter the r35 maf to support a smaller turbo with streetablilty.

does anyone know how to scale the power fc (FC DATALOGIT) air flow readings?

and or convert from lbs/min to PFC data?

and

R35 MAF flowrates to PFC Data...

Cheers,

scott

what i reallly need after all that is the following data for the R35 GTR MAF,

voltage vs flow

i cant find that info anywhere !!!

if i can get that, i can get a close scale to put it into the PFC, i have found the nissan polynominal to make adjustments, and then fine tune to suit my car once in there. but just need the data first up.

even resistance / voltage woul dbe a good start to work it backwards with interpolation to the stock afm.

there is a lot of talk about it on forums, but actual hard data is a mission to come by for this MAF.

Cheer.s

my bad.... still a bit of a steep learning curve here.

but with some form of units of data ya can interpolate it.

the HPX gives lbs/min flow vs voltage.

idealy that would be awesome to get from the R35 GTR MAF....

if anyone out there has it?

Nistune has VQ maps for all the AFMs in the installation (OK, probably actually in the ROM Pack, but no matter). You can install Nistune and look at the Z32 one, noting down the VQ maps, then you could do the same with the R35 AFM VQ map. You could even load up a map for a Z32 VG30DET then use the software to do a change to the R35 AFm and not the changes that it makes to the k value and so on. That would instruct you quite well on the relativity between them.. If you couldn't parley that data into a useful starting VQ for your PFC I'd be very surprised.

f**king legend !

i was going to install nistune tonight and have a poke around at a whimb to see if it would have any data i could use.

thanks for clearing that up!

that will be a good start,

and to be honest, that will most probably be pretty close!

then a tune of the fuel map to clean it up.

cheers

The VQ AFM's are very similar to the R35 ones, and can be had very cheap these days. If there is data around for them they would be a no brainer over the Z32.

VQ afm????

Voltage Quantifier (VQ) ???

i will have hte data conversion from the r35 later with any luck.

the R35 are about 90 odd $ then an adaptor welded to a pipe and voila!

so the question is, where did you find the Flow table vs voltage to tune the thing?

so i have interpolated with averages between nistune and apexi.

fark... its rough as guts, but it could be a start...

iv contacted apexi to see if they have any data i can use.

;) ya onto it now.

yep im tuning it my self.

hence why im trying to get as much data as i can ;)...

and yes your right. once the curve is pretty right with respects to resolution. you can fix up the fuel map to suit the needs of the tune.

the tuning side isnt the concern, just the R35 afm data is lol!

  • 1 month later...

post-17056-0-33137200-1381981458_thumb.png

ok so since we last spoke sau...

i bought an official APEXi kit, from streeter who was very helpful as always..

it comes with the flow data to punch into the pfc for maf calibration,

how i interpolated the nistune data, was obviously incorrect....

you can see my the graph attached the r35gtr right and left banks is my interpolation of the nistune data.

unfortunatley i f**ked that up somewhere. and its always easier to get data from someone who has actually tested and aquired it.

so i decided to go this route for something different, its cost is a bit cheaper than a Z32, and i wont be aiming for anything near 300rwkw (about what hte z32 can handle on a sr apparantly - no idea. never tried or seen)

so thought id throw this up for the benefit on anyone else going down this path with a power fc..

cheers.

  • 3 years later...

A bit old, but still the most informative bit of info I have come across when it comes to calibrating the R35 MAF.  

But, still not enough I think.  

I have a power fc, datalogit, and am hoping to throw a R35 MAF onto my RB25 R32.  There are many more options for R35 MAF adapaters now and the aforementioned APEXi kit is pretty ugly.  Someone is selling the MAF data separately on yahoo auctions, but if I can enter the info myself it would be helpful. 

Does anyone have any ideas of how to enter the above graph info numerically into the power fc? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...