Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I recently put a heavy duty button clutch into my car last weekend, and am playing on taking it to an event this coming weekend.

I've been driving it as much as possible, but is there a quick way to bed the clutch in?

I have a 3hr drive to the track tomorrow night but it is mostly freeway. Should I consider pushing the clutch in and out occasionally as I drive? Change between more frequently 4th and 5th? Or am I going to do more harm than good?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430998-quickly-bedding-in-a-new-clutch/
Share on other sites

I would have thought a couple of days of driving in city/traffic sufficient. After a 100 or so kms again I would think all is sweet.

PS. Stay away from riding it for a short while immediately after fitted. Being a button clutch if you ride it will heat up the button easily.

Glazing can occur also.

Edited by Sinista32

In my last car (R31, RB30 engine, RB20DET box) I took my car drifting and was used the clutch as I normally would after a couple hundred KM of normal driving, no problems at all. I just did the same thing with my S14 (SR20 engine, RB25DET box) with no issues - it's all you need imo!
First clutch was an Exedy sprung brass button with an upped (1350kg) clamp load job, S14 clutch is an Exedy Sports Organic (coppermix-ish one).

im in a simlar spot my clutch is only new only done 200km maybe if that - no launches but have started to open up 2nd and 3rd clutch is still bedding in can smell it if i flog it but npc said that will happen for maybe 500km but said if i dont get enough km down the when i get to the track to warm it up and it should be fine..

dont like bedding it in special whe you can smell it but npc said its normal (was my first clutch change)

I didn't smell either of my clutches when bedding them in, I wound out 2nd gear to redline in my S14 with about 70km on the clutch too.

i got npc cushion button clutch rated 450kw.. what was your clutch and your power?

i been told it is normal so lets hope so gonna get a flogging soon hahaha

My current clutch is an Exedy Sports Organic HD - it's silver, not pink like many other Exedy clutches and has a coppermix sort of compound - like a poor man's Nismo Coppermix haha.
My power is dead stock, SR20DET.

My previous clutch was a bit of a mix, it was a 6 puck sprung brass button clutch (Exedy) but K&B Clutch Engineering in Sydney modified the pressure plate and increased the clamp load to around 1300kg. That was used with a stock RB30E, no smell either.


Both very low power applications.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...