Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

512hp on 18psi, rich reckons the gearbox will let go if we wind the boost up to where I want it. Still so so much more in this thing. Torque is very interesting.

that awesome Scottie congrats.

Yeah the torque on them gboxes are very destructive.

U gonna get an aftermarket box?

512hp on 18psi, rich reckons the gearbox will let go if we wind the boost up to where I want it. Still so so much more in this thing. Torque is very interesting.

daves 33 just runs standard boxes, 550kw 3L. broken a few boxes (selectors and synchros) but never actually broken a gearset in them.

dont be soft.

daves 33 just runs standard boxes, 550kw 3L. broken a few boxes (selectors and synchros) but never actually broken a gearset in them.

dont be soft.

Is it really 'don't be soft' or just good advice from his tuner Tits?

I know I would rather be informed that the Gbox is most likely to break if pushed further rather than let the tuna go nutz and break it on the dyno

Is it really 'don't be soft' or just good advice from his tuner Tits?

I know I would rather be informed that the Gbox is most likely to break if pushed further rather than let the tuna go nutz and break it on the dyno

its dont be soft.

the 25 gtst box is tough and because it doesnt have 4wd traction the shock loading (ala 6000 and side step the clutch GTR launch) just results in wheel spin rather than damage to the gears unless you are running some seriously sticky rubber.

Tits is correct. Most people say the r33 gtst box is easily good for 450rwkw.

The issue in them is synchros, which die on standard power. Just be nicer when shifting and itll help save the synchros.

Other wise do as i taught the boys at the nats to do. While stationary, select second, Dial in 7000rpm or just shy of, side step the clutch. Allow smoke to ensue...

More than welcome mate, The driving was fine.

lots of looks of surprise on motorists faces

sounds like a nightmare, It will scare small children...I love it

I too thought i was getting more looks than normal.. That bloke on the dirt bike seemed quite interested

I'm happy with how it is for now and will wait to recoup some $$ before I wind the boost up. Not sure which way I want to go with aftermarket box

the number of standard boxes you can get for the cost of building a box means you could break one a year and still be ahead after 7 years (including labour)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I’ve just finished fitting the timing belt on my RB25, following the standard procedure: rotate the crank twice, release the tensioner, then tighten it down. The belt feels tight, and you can see that clearly in the picture below I’ve heard some people say it’s actually better for the belt to be slightly loose rather than too tight, as excessive tension can lead to snapping. So that’s in the back of my mind. What I’m seeing is this:  • At idle, the belt looks fine.  • But when cranking and especially when revving (around 3–4,000 RPM), there’s a momentary flap/flex or flicker in the belt, which I’ve tried to capture in the video. So my question is — based on what you see, is this slight belt movement something you’d consider normal, or am I just being OCD? Could this amount of movement cause sync issues? Or is it just a harmless bit of flex under load?   from what I know belt flap and flex is expected when crank spins up and pull cam with it Would appreciate any thoughts or similar experiences.     IMG_7656.mov IMG_7657.mov
    • I've replaced the front brakes of my NA to 324 brembos and 350z calipers: i'm going for 225/40-18 up front and 245/35-18 in the back. I have Rays 7.5*19 ET35(225/35) in the front with 5mm spacers otherwise the calipers "lock up/ won't rotate". When i use the calculator i come up with 8*18 ET30 for 225/40...... but not sure i get problems with the calipers. Anyone riding around with 18 inch. that can confirm "that it'll fit"? In the back it's 7.5*9 ET30 (245/30) with the 5mm spacers, but there is no problem with the standard small brakes, so i want to take 8.5*18 ET25 (245/35).
    • Lol.. but then.. always come back to a JDM..
    • Glad to hear. If possible, get your tuner to check air's to make sure everything is still where it should be.
    • The problem with FB/Insta/Reddit etc comments relating to cars is simple. You get to ask a question once, and get one round of replies. For things that can actually be answered in a few lines of text, once, it's fine. After 6 hours, your original question is lost to the void. There are no follow ups, additional questions, anything. No project car is ever such a simple list of questions to ask. You need discussion.
×
×
  • Create New...