Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

Nismo fuel pumps are only 275lph or something silly. Sure they bolt in but thats about it. 450lph walbro pump will also cost ~150 bucks less IIRC. If the R33gtst fuel pump mount setup is similar to the R32gtst it's a peice of piss to modify it to fit, though getting to the tank may be harder due to 33's being less likely to combust in a rear end accident.

You could probably easily go smaller injectors (720cc?) and shave off a hundred bucks. Also make sure you buy side feed injectors to suite your fuel rail, with the right size holes etc.

Really need a FPR? Making 300kw's here without one, but maybe there's different stuff on the GTR fuel system?

I wouldn't double the tuning, maybe add only 50%, for flex. You're basically getting two tunes in there. That's assuming you have no issues however, which can quickly add up unfortunately. I mean, best case, just a 98 tune, 500 bucks maybe. Worst case, things to wrong, flex tune, 2000 bucks isn't out of the question, so be ware.

you're also just missing little stuff. Turbo gaskets, new studs, fittings for Ethanol sensor and the like can add up to a few hundred bucks

You'll need to figure out how you're going to get the car to the tuner aswell, Everything you need to do is easy enough to DIY at home (and... satisfying to do, i'd recommend it), but with bigger injectors the car will be undrivable unless you can get the tune adjusted for the injectors. Not sure how easy haltec is to modify

Not compatible? So Walbro over Bosch 040?

If you say so. You've done it recently.

yeah, the Walbro pump is E85 ready and as Pete said flows more than nismo pumps.

It can be fitted in tank too (just like mine)

Yeah, budget for at minimum 2k in tuning costs with eflex

R33 fuel tank is completely different to R32, just FYI.

Not sure how simple it is to mount a walbro/040 in tank in an R33

well as long is its not mounted to the tank floor it'd be easy enough :woot:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...