Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

the main difference is the map sensor.

newer gen vipec runs a 3 bar map sensor vs links 2.5 bar.

that was it for the differences afaik, and if you arent looking to run more than 30 psi thats all good.

From the web site it also looks like the Vipec has knock control built in where as the Link needs the knockblock add on?

And isnt it 20psi for the link? Because you have to take away 1 bar for the atmosphere?

I recent acquired a link cheap so I didnt research as much as usual so have some questions from someone who has used them!

From the web site it also looks like the Vipec has knock control built in where as the Link needs the knockblock add on?

And isnt it 20psi for the link? Because you have to take away 1 bar for the atmosphere?

I recent acquired a link cheap so I didnt research as much as usual so have some questions from someone who has used them!

as i said, 3 bar absolute vs 2.5 bar absolute (so take 1 bar away from both to get positive pressure)

Hatlech doesnt have knock control does it?

What model did you get?

as i said, 3 bar absolute vs 2.5 bar absolute (so take 1 bar away from both to get positive pressure)

I see, now I am on the same page

sending you to swim with Sharks :dry: eh!

kinda tells me they wanna get rida ya :devil:

Lol nah they like me too much, I deal with the people they don't need to lol

Swimming with sharks is like getting something out of the bottom draw in from of a seedy old man.

You feel safe, until you leave something exposed

This is very true, I'll either get eaten or speared by a stingray haha

they are a nice ecu and can do lots of nice extras, flat shifting and igition retard launch control provide pops bangs and stationary flutters/bov

ie, sitting at the lights clutch in, revs up, turbo spools, left off throttle. aww yea, 20 psi sitting still.

also they sound awesome with the antilag on.

they are a nice ecu and can do lots of nice extras, flat shifting and igition retard launch control provide pops bangs and stationary flutters/bov

ie, sitting at the lights clutch in, revs up, turbo spools, left off throttle. aww yea, 20 psi sitting still.

also they sound awesome with the antilag on.

whos car is this?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...