Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can't see why not. Don't listen to people that say silly things like supporting mods etc. Just bolt it on and boost away into the sunset. ;) rb25s were made for turbos after all.

Edited by superben
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7005338
Share on other sites

After seeing the results of his VNT I think Hypergear would be a far better choice, I don't think any other manufacturer would spend so much time with an R33 on the dyno to develop turbo options for an Rb.

Edited by AngryRB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006137
Share on other sites

You can put any turbo on an rb25. Just depends on what you want to use the car for and how much power you want. Hypergear stuff isnt crap and props to them for making the choice easy for skyline owners when it comes to setups.

The reason why garrett and precision dont spend so much time developing a turbo for the 25 is most likely because they aren't aiming for skyline owners but moreso aiming for the entire performance/turbo world.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006342
Share on other sites

Dont be confused a garrett gt3582r ("3540") is a good turbo but it will be on the laggy side of turbos for a rb25. You also cant just bolt one on and away you go. You'll need supporting mods like a " ecu, atleast 740cc injectors or bigger if going e85. 4" dump into a 3.5"

exhaust with a sutiable cat. Drop in cams and valve springs. Depending on fuel your planning to use will determine what fuel pump set up you need. Remember a (3540) is a 700hp turbo so unless used on a track on constant high revs it will feel laggy on the street. You'll need other things for a 3540 setup. Suspension, brakes, clutch etc. You would be bettet off spending the money on a HYPERGEAR hi-flow. Ss1pu would be good for a simple upgrade. Or his ss2 vnt if your prepared to upgrade other bits & pieces. Or a 3076 hta. Precision 5757/5858 billet cea wheel could be a goet as well.

Josh.

Edited by Joshbigt62r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006617
Share on other sites

I found this on the dynosheet section, It is a GT3582 in a .82 rear housing, This is a very good comparison to mine which has a more "Rb25det defined" 3582 equivalent turbocharger.

gallery_34685_3163_69889.jpg

Compare with boost plot:

boost.jpg

Which is identical to my controlled run (thick yellow), Thin yellow is the defined version.

Power wise it made 445rwkws @25psi @ 4500RPM. It is not that bad, still not a responsive turbo for a daily, which I'm working on.

Depending on how Cheap a GT3582 can be obtained, I can certainly modify it to the "defined" version at a fee. After the completion of research.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006632
Share on other sites

Save your money up and buy a power fc if funds ade tight or what I recommend go straight to a adaptronic/Vi-Pec/ Link or Haltech direct plug in mate. Then you wonf need a afm. Jyst use thd map sensor and tons more features mate. Greddy blue is good for a paper weighf thats a8 it lol. And aem im not sure many people tune them here in Australia. Pick whatever ECU your tuner is most comfortable with I should have said.

Josh.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006707
Share on other sites

I love this magical "RB25 specific" stuff. Turbo has NFI what engine it is attached to, sure - there are some combinations which will suit each other better or otherwise but for the most part that is bigger picture turbo/engine/part matching stuff (ie, tuning in the bigger picture). Comparing two large turbos on an engine not good at spooling turbos and allowing one to start at 1500rpm and giving that turbo 4.6 seconds to reach 4500rpm (Hypergear - assuming the 9 second run Chequered uses still applies) versus one which starts at 2500rpm and allows it 3.1 seconds to get to 4500rpm (GT35R) proves that the Hypergear turbo can build more boost by 4500rpm if it's given 50% more time to do so. Out of interest, the GT35R is actually hitting full boost 3.7s into it's dyno run after starting 1000rpm later, versus 4.6 for the Hypergear. How they'd both compare on the same start rpm and ramp rate, who knows.

A question which hasn't been asked so far - is that an actual Garrett GT3582R, or an ebay-type "GT35"? I'm starting to wonder.... and if that's the case, save your money and keep the stock turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006718
Share on other sites

I love this magical "RB25 specific" stuff. Turbo has NFI what engine it is attached to, sure - there are some combinations which will suit each other better or otherwise but for the most part that is bigger picture turbo/engine/part matching stuff (ie, tuning in the bigger picture). Comparing two large turbos on an engine not good at spooling turbos and allowing one to start at 1500rpm and giving that turbo 4.6 seconds to reach 4500rpm (Hypergear - assuming the 9 second run Chequered uses still applies) versus one which starts at 2500rpm and allows it 3.1 seconds to get to 4500rpm (GT35R) proves that the Hypergear turbo can build more boost by 4500rpm if it's given 50% more time to do so. Out of interest, the GT35R is actually hitting full boost 3.7s into it's dyno run after starting 1000rpm later, versus 4.6 for the Hypergear. How they'd both compare on the same start rpm and ramp rate, who knows.

Its not "magic", it is ingenuity, more because enough work and researches has been put into this item, specifically for a Rb25det. Results came from the dynosheet section that has same setup as mine

The dyno automatically pickup data in set roller rate and completes in a given time. So at the point of where data began to plotted car is already on fully throttle, in which makes no difference to boost generating behavior. You can start plotting from 500RPMs and it will still match identical RPM/Boost plots.

Plus turbocharger in this size is not sensitive to ramp change, lets give / take 1.3 sec makes 0 differences.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7006796
Share on other sites

GT35 - 400rwkw turbo.

You're going to need more than 550cc injectors unless you plan to run a pretty high base pressure to start off with which would then lead to ensuring you have a very good fuel pump to supply the fuel @ that rate/pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431409-gt35-on-rb25/#findComment-7007651
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...