Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well i have been thinking about so many different turbos lately for my needs. But for some reason the Td06 comes to mind all the time, since i have seen 2 r33's in the flesh that run TD06-20G turbos and they go respectably well i beleive this has convinced me that this is the turbo choice for me. Although i will go The 25G not 20G, MY engine has decided that it only wants to hold 30psi in number 5 cyl and there its need to be fixed. Was considering the Rb30/25 conversion but its not something i want to do just yet, So forged Rb25 is what i am going to continue on with. I will not be bolting the Td06 onto the stock exhaust manifold, it will be either a trust or hpi one. Basically along with cams, adj cam gears, power fc and the needed support items my power target is between 350-400hp at rear wheels.

My questions are. Will the td06-25g be efficient around the 1-1.5 Bar mark, have no intention of going higher? This will continue to be my everyday drive car so this turbo shouldnt be any hassle driving to n from work? Would people suggest any different similar sized turbos to maybe consider? Also if i am looking at a new TD06, how am i to measure the exhaust housing size to know whether its adequate or not? Any help is much apeciated aswell as any further info u think i should know

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43173-td06-on-rb25/
Share on other sites

i already have done a search on TD06. Comes up with a heck of alot of stuff that is completely not related. found some info on Rob's Td06 ones but he is using stock exhaust manifold with a totally different wastegate setup. Was wondering if i could get some advice from people who have mates or have had experience with em.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43173-td06-on-rb25/#findComment-881684
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...