Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1996 R33 GTS-T

Recently installed a pod filter box and forgot to fully tighten a pipe clamp on a rubber elbow boot on the hot air intercooler pipe (exiting turbo into Intercooler), driving on a short loop of the F3 and heard a loud pop, lost all boost and power. Struggled for about 1.5km until it was safe to pull over (at 15km/h max). Looked under the bonnet and saw my error, luckily the rubber elbow boot and clamp were still there (but completely blown off the pipe (at both ends). Put it all back together (tightened this time) and drove home (about another 15 minutes), was a little sick sounding and idle searching.

2 weeks later without restarting the car, today it started OK, but blowing a hell of a lot of black smoke (at idle) and soot spray at rev's.

I've cleaned the aac valve and reset the idle (using "insu's" tutorial, thx); but still black smoke at idle and soot spray at revs; smells like it's running very rich (always was rich, but smells more so now).

Any suggestions???? Not game to take it on the road yet.

Oh mods include:

JJR 3” front/dump (heat wrapped), 3” Catco Hiflow cat with 3” Kakimoto catback exhaust, Blitz return flow Fmic, Blitz Sus Pod. Z32 Afm, Havoc Stainless 3” hard intake pipe out of turbo. Jecs 550cc Injectors, Walbro Gss342 intank fuel pump, Splitfire Coil Pack, Hypergear SS1PU Billet turbo with 15 psi actuator, Apexi Power Fc (with hand controller), R33 GTR Bov, boost gaige and turbo timer.

After the hose blew off the car would have been running crazy rich, so perhaps all the carbon and richness is leftover from that. If it was my car I would take out for a thrash and see what happens, I think it would clear itself. whether you do that or not is up to you :)

Change the plugs. They will not last very long at all in a rich state. Then do as suggested, pressure test your intake. After you change the plugs warm it up and give it a few good revs and see how it responds then take it for a spin.

O2 sensor failed? it did the same thing on my 180sx agers ago. Goto PFC console and check the o2 feed back. It should be running out of a cycle of reach and lean or afr +/- 0.5 around 13. If it stays consistent then needs to be replaced.

Alternatively you might have another split hose or some thing similar.

Thx all for the responses, I'll check and replace the plugs. The O2 sensor is disconnected by the previous owner (just unplugged). I haven't reconnnected it, so not sure if it's faulty or was tuned that way. Will make a calll to the tuner to find out.

Stay tuned, just need to wait for the weekend to tinker.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hmmm....need help still???

Cleaned the AAC valve again, replaced the plugs (Iridiums, 0.8 gap), replaced the O2 sensor (it apparently was faulty), replaced the oil filter and oil.....still black smoke at idle and spitting black sooty oily smoke at rev's???? and smells very rich still.

Have also installed a D1Spec Oil catch can.

Oh also installed blue LED dash lights too (i got bored.....) Looks very cool.

How do I adjust the air/fuel ratio?

Will a good tune help or just a mechanic to diagnose??

Oh forgot to add, how do I pressure test the intake? (as suggested by scotty nm35 & SargeRX8).

if you typed that into the search box you would get your answer instantly :)

You must still have a boost leak somewhere. Check all piping, make sure they are all tight, maybe you have a split somewhere

dude, his previous post just said he bought a boost leak tester, so i assume that's what he is going to do!

also check your afm, it might have decided its had enough at the same time as your pipe popped off coincidence like.

my 33 had the same problem and after considerable stuffing around I found my afm connector pins were dry jointed.

  • 4 weeks later...
Got the Boost Leak Tester (image below), found a major leak in the BOV gasket (now fixed) and 2 small slow leaks in some hose clamps (clamps replaced). New plugs installed, cleaned the MAF sensor and everything else cleaned again. Car running much better but still a bit of black smoke and boost/turbo flutter above 10psi boost (was tuned to 15psi). Sounds to me like a air/fuel mixture issue. Time for a tune.
Had the bonnet up on Reservior road (near the quarry) on Sunday when another black skykline drove down the hill and tooted / waved at me. Cheers mate, looked up and waved, but you were gone. Love the skyline love.
Also added some photo's on the old and new blue dash LED's.

Old Dash lights (now changed to Blue LED

New Blue LED

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...