Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, just wanting some proper clarification, not what you "think" is true, or what your brothers mates cousin friend told you he heard once.

Is the 32 GTS4 box the same strength wise as the 32 GTR box?
I know they have different ratio's, but have read conflicting info regarding strength, some say weak, some say same internals as GTR box or 25det manual box.

I just want clarification before looking at one as a potential new car.

Cheers
Brett

FWIW, I have a R32 GTS4 running the RB25DET. It was initially tuned to 180kW at all 4 (factory is only around 115 @ all 4). It still runs the factory gearbox. The box is still fine, no synchro problems, no selection problems.

In my experience, Nissan gearboxes are TOUGH. Some people will tell you "I just broke my 4th box". I have to say they must really be mistreating the box. Treat the box right, ie no 7k-sidestep-the-clutch-launches, it will treat you right.

It is a KNOWN fact that the GTS4 gearbox is basically the same box as the GTR box.

The GTR box is basically the same internals as the other large frame Nissan gearboxes (RB25DET, VG30). It makes sense that they would go to the effort of developing the AWD box for the hi po car based on the existing strong gearbox. It makes absolutely no sense that they would then go and develop another AWD box based on the small frame gearbox (RB20DET) just to put it behind RB20s in GTS4s. Even though the little RB20 wouldn't need the strength, it would make the most sense for them just to bung the strong AWD box they already had behind it.

They are very similar. As a couple of examples, the mainshaft part number is the same between the GTS4 and GTR boxes, but different to the 2wd rb20 boxes. The bearings are the same between the GTR and GTS4 but different to the RB20. These are two indicators that they are of similar strength.

Cheers fella's, exactly what I wanted to hear, this has a 25 in it already and a few decent mods, has a rwd switch, so will be using that majority of the time if we get it.
Won't be abusing it, but if my mates can baby their GTR boxes with 500+hp and still have fun, then I'm sure I can manage with 400 :)

I'd say clutch selection is one of the most important factors in breaking gearboxes... steer clear solid centre clutches and mega clamp singles..

I did like the comment above from someone with all of 180kw that anyone who breaks one "must really be mistreating the box" ?

put decent power through them, with good grip and they're not indestructible.

That's not a fault of the gearbox. Its like blaming the kettle for blowing up after you took out the 10A circuit breaker and replaced it with a 6" nail.

My point about my "all of 180kW" shows that even with a 50% increase in power going through it, the box still works perfectly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...