Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm in the midst of designing a toe/bump steer correction kit so that owners of 30 and 31 Skylines can run S13 coilovers with S13 uprights.

Would love to know how many are interested in this. Am thinking they'll be around the $150 - $175 mark, or I'll do them for $1300 with a set of G-Force coilovers.

I'll probably only get 10-15 kits made to start with so please let me know an idea of numbers.

Cheers

Peter

  • 3 months later...

Hey guys,

Here are the basic mockups of the bump steer correction kit (not finalised) and I've also created a rear coil over adapter - as you know S13 coilovers in the rear of a DR30 need to be at their highest setting (usually) just to get a lowered ride height (can't get a standard height) so I have created these that will bolt onto your coilovers so you have more height range adjustment, plus no need to drill holes as it converts from 2 to 3 hole.

Haven't worked out pricing yet but will be using top quality bearings on the bump steer kit which might drive up the price a little, but you don't want them failing on you!

bump-steer-correction-dr30-1.PNG

bump-steer-correction-dr30-2.PNG

DR30-S13-coilover-adapter-kit.PNGDR30-S13-coilover-adapter-kit-2.PNG

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys,

I'm finalising the design and these should be in production in March. Just some final measurement checks and also some dust boots for the bearings. The complete kit front/rear will be around $250 - $280 and will come with everything you need to grab your S13 front uprights, S13 coilovers and bolt them in.

Please note this is for the DR30. The R31 kit will differ slightly.

Looks like we have 5 interested guys here. I'll be producing 10 kits to start with.

  • 2 weeks later...

I've made a design change. It came to my attention that the kit wasn't going to be IPRA legal (which is what I'm building my DR30 for). Tie rods ENDS are free, but I have to use standard tie rods (or from another similar car). The use a normal rod end would put too much strain in the shank, so I've designed my own tie rod end that takes a motorsport spec spherical bearing. The good news is its a more elegant design, although it might cost a touch more, it will be more robust.

bump-steer-correction-dr30-v2-14mm.PNG

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Okay so the new design (not shown yet) is in production. Here is a replacement tie rod end (that takes a spherical bearing). I'll have the full batch by the end of the month, then have them in my car for testing asap.

tie-rod-end-pre-coating.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...