Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, still trying to fix up the engine in my series 1 r33.

picture 1: so i noticed on my greddy intake that there is 4 points that are blocked, i could not find anywhere that said what these were for and im very new to skylines

and its got me screwed! if anyone could tell me what there for/ where to run them, if they are needed at all, would be great!

picture 2: so my fpr is not rigged up? and i cant seem to find exactly how to hook it up? i seen some diy but even with them i found they were a bit hard to understand, like i said i am a noob, but like everyone you have to start somewhere and i would rather learn rather than just get it done somewhere,

picture 3: i took my coilpacks out today to have a look over them and i noticed oil where the spark plug is, seemed odd to me, is that normal or? i was thinking that if its not normal i have a leaking gasket and oils finding its way there.

post-118991-0-27343000-1379841435_thumb.jpg

post-118991-0-14345700-1379841729_thumb.jpg

post-118991-0-02177800-1379841795_thumb.jpg

ill try to help, the fuel reg needs fed the returning fuel which is at the front of the rail nearest the timing cover, the bottem is the return to the tank and the top one needs fed vacuum from your plenum.

The coilpack oil is likely from your rocker cover gaskets leaking, so just get some new gaskets.

AS for the plenum outlets, just look at a stock manifold and you'll have

1) BOV vacuum line

2) Emissions pipe to charcoal canister, could be 2for that

3) fuel reg vacuum line

Edited by AngryRB

im not sure what effect it would have on the coilpacks, you wouldn't want them swimming in oil obviously, probably quite common for the age of the car. Cant be running to well with the fuel reg not even hooked up, its looking pretty old too.

good luck with it

yeah i bought it how it is now mate. just fixing previous owners problems, will be getting full rebuild and everything neccesary just at beggining stages trying to learn

everything i can and get some know how, engine will be going in different car.

your fuel reg is not hooked up becaue you dont need it man,,,you have the standard fuel reg there and its vacumn is connected to the Throttle body...(that is red hose form fuel rail to TB)... now one of those pipes on the plenum would be for the aftermarket reg that you dont need ..so just remove that fuel reg in the picture...the other hose is probably a BOV vacumn hose ..where is your BOV by the way?..as for the oil in the coilpack it is a tiny amount and probably just spillage from somebody filling the oil up.which cylinder is it?..check for leaks anyway

It was probably running that reg and 600hp, then got returned to stock lol , by the way one of those injectors looks like its not bolted down, silver plate things not on

the stock reg should be hooked to the plenum not the throttle, the throttle one is for the Charcoal canister I think,

Edited by AngryRB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...