Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just finished working on a 300zx TT, full twin cooler piping and twin 3 inch exhausts. Anyone that thinks they are hard to work on has never seen under an M35 Stagea, that's for sure. :P

The owner is wanting 450kw with ethanol on a built engine, running twin 2860's. Going by the 350kw run in tune on 98 it will make that no problem.

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Assuming the car was a manual with basic exhaust mods, good service history etc what are the chances of me dropping in some 850cc injectors, E85pump, nistune and E85 with the stock turbo's and it making 250rwkw's?

Have a look at this thread off one of the US forums, you'll need to sign up to view it though

http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=218616

He's aiming for 800hp with an internally stock vg & a pair of GTX3071's, granted US power figures could be considered 'optimistic' compared to aussie ones but worth a read. & have a look through the build section on aus300zx.com, plenty of members doing builds aiming for 350kw so easy to get an idea of what's involved.

Im getting used to PITA setup's, the top feed rail on gtst is something id like to forget in future...

Just throwing idea's up at the moment, also considering a Toyota Prado 3.4L petrol for something different, looking for best bang for buck for under $10k..

best bang for buck under 10k would have to be the my00 wrx in my option

Just remember when looking at a 300zx is 90% of them have seeious electrical demons and most of the water hoses are perished and require replacing. They are also very light in the rear and have trouble with traction at standard power levels.

Also they are harder to work on then a gtst (won't say skyline cause the Gtr is a pain) and good ones may be harder to find

Did you just ignore the fact that a bunch of Z32 owners came in here prior to you posting this and tried to deter people from posting bullshit?

Did you just ignore the fact that a bunch of Z32 owners came in here prior to you posting this and tried to deter people from posting bullshit?

Everyone I've driven has had wheels spin even at standard power levels, so there is no needs to get sooky about it

Everyone I've driven has had wheels spin even at standard power levels, so there is no needs to get sooky about it

because every dead shit seems to throw on crappy china tyres or even worse, bald ones. I've driven 20+ different Z32's and i can guarantee the only ones that had wheelspin issues were the ones with high hp.

Assuming the car was a manual with basic exhaust mods, good service history etc what are the chances of me dropping in some 850cc injectors, E85pump, nistune and E85 with the stock turbo's and it making 250rwkw's?

Dude read my previous comment. 250rwkw is attainable on 98 on 16PSI, its been done before with a good tune. There are some in the 11's at 120+MPH on E85. Turbo wise you can turn them up to 24PSI(look at the compressor map of the turbos, also confirmed by people who have done it) but will drop back to 17PSI by redline due to the turbos choking. Highest i've heard of that has backed it up with MPH was a 450rwhp run. This car runs 11.4's at 121MPH :) another car has run similar on the dyno and ran 11.23 @ 124MPH.

szhighhpstockturbos.jpg

+1 for super dragger's comments. 250rwkw is pretty easy for a Z32 TT, even on 98Octane and standard injectors (although you'd prefer the 555cc's at a minimum to have some more headroom). Standard fuel pump is good for over 450kw on 98 oct.

For 250kw you'd need

Good condition OEM fuel pump

555cc injectors for some headroom.

Larger Side mount intercoolers

Tune

Exhaust from dumps back (standard dumps are pretty good for this power level)

All your maintenance up to scratch

If you are running E85 and put some more boost into it I'd expect over 300kw. Mine is making 320kw on 20psi (98Octane) and I am going to run it on E85 soon and see what it makes.

I wouldn't really listen to the people saying they have electrical issues... I can't really think of any common electrical issues and they don't suffer from the coilpack issues that plague skylines. Probably would budget for a S2 PTU (as per s2 r33 GTS-t). I've had mine for close to 7 years and have never had an electrical fault.

Assuming the car was a manual with basic exhaust mods, good service history etc what are the chances of me dropping in some 850cc injectors, E85pump, nistune and E85 with the stock turbo's and it making 250rwkw's?

How many have you driven? They don't have traction issues at standard power levels...

over 20, I use to work at a compliance workshop 10-13 years ago when imports just started to become popular and 300s were a massive market

How does a 300ZX Twin Turbo compare to a R33 GTS-T? Considering wether its worth it to buy and modify it to hit the 300kw's.. If the RB30/25 is a torque monster can the 300zx be similar with similar, what im after is a fairly cheap reliable 300kw for the street and thinking of doing Injectors,computer,Eflex and 18psi on stock turbo's to get close to 300kw if I bought one.. At this power level with the R33 it was frying second gear and a handful, could I expect the same with a 300zx??

Pound for pound the potential from the 300zx is far greater than the R33.

More displacement

Shorter stroke

Forged Crank

Forged Rods

More torque

That said there is far greater aftermarket support for the RB platform, and being a "simpler" (is that even a real word?) configuration is much easier to work on.

I just finished working on a 300zx TT, full twin cooler piping and twin 3 inch exhausts. Anyone that thinks they are hard to work on has never seen under an M35 Stagea, that's for sure. :P

The owner is wanting 450kw with ethanol on a built engine, running twin 2860's. Going by the 350kw run in tune on 98 it will make that no problem.

This one http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325568 ?

How many have you driven? They don't have traction issues at standard power levels...

Dunno about traction issues -mine would spin 265 Nankang's on a stock motor, but good tyres make all the difference.

Also there's a world of difference between losing traction on a hard launch at Maccas compared to losing traction at the top of 3rd haha

Again pound for pound the Z32 with wider footprint should be more stable than the R33....

ok well assuming it has good turbo's and we don't need to remove the engine, what potential does it have with ( stock turbo's apparently are garrett) to make over 250kw with E85 and say 18psi??

would it be a push in the seat experience or lacking????

Stock turbos will be very responsive and easy to make 250rwkw with E85. Stock turbos make an easy 220 with bolt ons

Dyno below is when I first bought my car, it had an HKS pod filter (which are crap), 2.5" cat back exhaust, and a GFB manual boost controller

uybf.jpg

Throw in intercoolers and you could wind the boost a little higher. Throw in more fuel and you can go a little higher again.

On E85 it'll smash 250 out of the park with an even better curve.

Consider for E85 though you'll want bigger injectors, probably Sard 800 just to be safe.

Don't think e85 is really 'daily' material, not yet anyways.

I personally think there a great car, just to bad most if not all on the roads these days are farked, they always seemed to be owned by chromed wheel wearing, autosalon paint spec bogans, atleast in vic anyways.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...