Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was merely speculating based on the photos, due to the nature of the failure, it looks as though the ring gear has separated from the flywheel. But it certainly looks as though your flywheel is a single solid piece flywheel.

Lol and i was supporting that speculation ;) hehe

I just posted the other info as i feel JB clutches get hammered on here by a select few and it is based on an issue that had more to the story too (So i am told)...

Ah i see now how this thread is.

I believe the problem here in is the fact that op wants to run a unsprung clutch which I highlighted before will much gearboxes. something has to give and if the clutch cant ant the tyres dont, then bye bye driveline

I spoke to jez about it as well who btw doesn't have an issue with unsprung but provided it will hold 450kw id go with sprung centre but will need further discussion with jb although jez said in his opinion solid centers are stronger, anyway I really appreciate everyone's input, australia is a democracy and so is sau and its what makes it great on both counts

34 g Tt you run a jb clutch I hear? Which one if so and how is it?

Scott

Yes, I have the carbotic button clutch as you can see in the link to my build thread, it has the special solid flywheel and the really heavy pressure plate too! Its damn good to drive on the street as you can nearly drive it like a normal clutch once you get used to it, and its been holding up to 360-390kw for over a year and it has not had an easy life....

Jim will run you through the advantage of sprung and unsprung, from memory the main difference was the transfer of driveline noise etc not so much the harshness... Anyway, pick his brains and tell him i said hi! haha

  • Like 1

Yes, I have the carbotic button clutch as you can see in the link to my build thread, it has the special solid flywheel and the really heavy pressure plate too! Its damn good to drive on the street as you can nearly drive it like a normal clutch once you get used to it, and its been holding up to 360-390kw for over a year and it has not had an easy life....

Jim will run you through the advantage of sprung and unsprung, from memory the main difference was the transfer of driveline noise etc not so much the harshness... Anyway, pick his brains and tell him i said hi! haha

and the difference between that and the NPC 10 inch carbotic with flywheel that i have is? Got any pics of it? How much was it?

ask alot of questions dont I :P

and the difference between that and the NPC 10 inch carbotic with flywheel that i have is? Got any pics of it? How much was it?

ask alot of questions dont I :P

Apparently the difference is mine will explode and destroy everything in a 100 mile radius according to gossip on here :no:

Have a look at the link on the last page and you will see pics mate! :action-smiley-069:

lol...still didnt say how much it was

Dont remember... I think the clutch rebuild was around $1000 or something but then i decided to buy the heavier cover and flywheel so there was more too it! It came with gearbox seal, rear main seal and bearing etc etc so it was the whole deal!

can you give me a rough date you did it so I dont have to scroll your whole build thread for pics..?

There was a link to the page? It was back on 22 or something... Or look on Bookface ya nutta haha

GeeTeeTee. It's mostly first hand accounts not gossip.

And when you come off the clutch hard and everything gets too much for the drive line, I'm tipping you lose traction. Don't you reckon the clutch has a lot more to hold when you have 4 wheels making that traction.

They might be fine in your application, but that doesn't mean they're right for all.

GeeTeeTee. It's mostly first hand accounts not gossip.

And when you come off the clutch hard and everything gets too much for the drive line, I'm tipping you lose traction. Don't you reckon the clutch has a lot more to hold when you have 4 wheels making that traction.

They might be fine in your application, but that doesn't mean they're right for all.

Fair enough, but if you are coming off the clutch hard then its driver error? Wouldnt you be loading it up then slipping it to a degree so you do not smash your driveline? My clutch is actually a 33GTR clutch so it would suit your application anyway, just different driving style.

Jim Berry is quite good in terms of understanding your specific needs and purpose and building the clutch around that to suit! Pretty sure PJ is hooking his up pretty hard!

close page 21... :P

its a nice looking clutch...tricstar has a good point there though

Lol close enough is good enough to me :P And yes the point is valid.

Yep GTT. Agree with your points too, but on the strip and track it's hard to always do the nice soft engagement ( in the heat of the moment ).

Clutch selection is tuff, I've had singles, twins, triples, carbonic, carbon, puck, button, sprung centre, solid centre, and all have their pros and cons.

Yep GTT. Agree with your points too, but on the strip and track it's hard to always do the nice soft engagement ( in the heat of the moment ).

Clutch selection is tuff, I've had singles, twins, triples, carbonic, carbon, puck, button, sprung centre, solid centre, and all have their pros and cons.

Yep and when choosing one you need to pick for your own application not just get a clutch as it says 1000hp rated lol

But it sounds like you are pretty familiar with all kinds which is good, also good to see you mention all have pros and cons, there is always some sacrifice when you start pushing the boundaries of performance products, i say mine is nice to drive but thats not to say it doesnt shit me in Sydney traffic once its hot etc... But for my application its good, once i get some decent tyres and get it down the drags we will see how it holds up with my rookie driving!

Well my clutch is on its way! Jim looked after me alot with price which was good of him , soon as its in I will get it tuned to its potential and head to drags hopefully with no explosions lol. Then fingers crossed I get banned for running sub 11 then no need to worry just cruises and hill climbs etc. I'm thinking if switching back to street tyres instead of semis to make an easier weak point in driveline but will keep u all posted

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a vb in honour of the car comming back
    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
×
×
  • Create New...