Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just starting to mod my gtr

Thought a good first mod would be a boost controller, was looking at the new greddy PRofec just looking for some feedback on this or any other good models, looking at spending $500 or under ish.

I've started getting used to the power now and think I need a bit more just wondering what some other relatively good mods to follow on with and not break the bank

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/
Share on other sites

What model is your gtr? On mobile, can't see details.

Pfc + tune will net you 250-260kw with boost restrictior pulled out to 14psi. No need for boost controller of any sort really

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7053952
Share on other sites

Dash 7/9 are Garrett 2860 (or 2859's) turbos bolt on for gtr's, do a search on forums for threads relating to them.

No need for baffling while the motor is unopened, just overfill it by half to a litre on top of 4.6L, start worry about them when you rebuild the motor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7053990
Share on other sites

Also, couple of threads to read, rb26 dyno results thread, it should give you ideas what to look for power wise with stock turbos and aftermarket bolt on's. It's on top of this forum, you can't miss it, have a read.

Another one is 'guide for 300-330kw gtr' thread - you'll need to search this, search button is your friend.

These threads will cover most of your questions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7054002
Share on other sites

And dash 7/9 are not the same as n1 turbos? and what would be the best twin setup direct replacement for good power

Dash 7 is r34 n1.

My choice is dash 9's, I've had gtr's with both -7/-9s. -7's are common and heaps of them are on for sale if you're looking at used turbos.

Both are bolt on turbos, and you'll need r33 gtr or larger dump pipes since you've got a 32.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7054005
Share on other sites

Assuming that you have all the maintenance up to date(fluids, brakes, suspension etc), that the exhaust is at least 3 inches from the cat back and everything is in good condition...

As stated above, either drill out or remove the stock boost restricter. Will net you 12-14psi.

I would suggest you get a nistune board installed in you stock ecu. It will be cheaper and arguably better than a PFC.

As a preventative measure, I would invest in a new fuel pump too.

From there.... how fast do you want to spend/go?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7054441
Share on other sites

I no it's terrible, when I bought the skyline I was like nah ill just leave it fairly stock just a couple of cheap mods hear and there. And spend the money doing a rebuild on my s12 sil but the silvia is under a car cover and it's like out of sight out of mind need more power better bits for the skyline hahaha.

Yer maintanance is pretty up to date I think. just had clutch slave and master done and brake master, injector kits, I'll look into the exhaust and start saving for the ecu and go from there. Can anyone suggest a good link for removing said boost restrictor too

As for power I guess eventually 300-350 kW would be nice but on apprentice wage I'm in no rush lol

Edited by 0zhiph0p
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7054682
Share on other sites

I no it's terrible, when I bought the skyline I was like nah ill just leave it fairly stock just a couple of cheap mods hear and there. And spend the money doing a rebuild on my s12 sil but the silvia is under a car cover and it's like out of sight out of mind need more power better bits for the skyline hahaha.

Yer maintanance is pretty up to date I think. just had clutch slave and master done and brake master, injector kits, I'll look into the exhaust and start saving for the ecu and go from there. Can anyone suggest a good link for removing said boost restrictor too

As for power I guess eventually 300-350 kW would be nice but on apprentice wage I'm in no rush lol

Passenger side of engine bay is the boost control solenoid. Black vacuum hose going into the side of it. Pull it off, look inside and there is a restrictor inside. Drill or use needle nose pliers to remove.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7054697
Share on other sites

Passenger side of engine bay is the boost control solenoid. Black vacuum hose going into the side of it. Pull it off, look inside and there is a restrictor inside. Drill or use needle nose pliers to remove.

It's actually on the drivers side in the gtr.

Don't drill it, just use pliers to take them out, look at one of hoses with yellow marking on them, that's where the restrictor is, squeeze that bit if you don't feel you can squeeze the tube, it means the restrictor is still in.

Yes, it's safe to run 14psi on stock ecu, with PFC/nistune, you'll benefit from extra power after tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432929-modifying-gtr/#findComment-7054716
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...