Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'Day

My R33 is due for a service and I'm trying to compile a checklist of what needs doing.

I have owned the car for 4 years regularly changing oil filters,oil,air cleaner and flushing the radiator,the Rb25det currently has platinum iridium plugs and the motor was rebuilt from scratch about 70,000kms.

I was wondering how essential the following are to change if they haven't been in 4 years.

Diff oil

Gearbox oil

Fuel Filter

Brake fluid

If anyone could help would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433114-r33rb25-servicing-checklist/
Share on other sites

I change my fuel filter every year, at the same time I also inspect fuel hose and clamps and replace as necessary. If you don't know how long the other oils have been in there, have they ever been replaced? or how hard the car has been driven???? then you have reason enough to change them.

I think it varies greatly depending on use

I give it a complete/full service when I buy a vehicle if I don't have proof of when what work was done.

If it's been 4yrs I would do all. I do the fuel filter and brake fluid yearly if it needs it or not.

If your tracking your skyline then you would do the brake fluid after a number of track days or when you boil it.

Diff oil and gearbox oil being in sealed/airtight units - not often. Although depends on temp, contaminants like moisture or particles.

Thoughts will vary on these. You could work off the cars servicing manual and/or the manufacturers life expectancy as a general rule.

Personally IMHO, if it's your daily every 5-7yrs depending on the number of KM's you put on it each year.

also depends what oils have been put in the diff n gearbox prior and what you want from it.

If they were just standard oils then id go for full syn's to treat them with as much love as possible and keep them performing as highly as possible for as long as possible. Especially if you have rebuilt the motor.

Iv not met a skyline owner who didn't say that the gearbox and diff felt immensely better after a change and use of a very good fully syn that's tried and tested for these cars.

Cheers guys, I have enough reason to change them as I like to keep good care of my cars.

I'll put a fully synthetic oil in next - any recommendations on what brand syn is the best?

My mate was telling me that Mobil 1 isn't the best for engine oil any more and it's got me thinking, I've been running Mobil 1 for years.

My car isn't track or daily I have a work car and another dato I drive most of the time, I like to keep the kms low on the skizza.

I will be sure to check the fuel line whilst I'm at it.

Really the difference between fully synthetic oils only matters when you are tracking or running some really high power etc etc.

Otherwise mobil 1 is fine if a bit overpriced for what the product appears to be these days and in comparison to the competition.

I use Castrol Edge titanium 10-40. Good oil, often comes up on special at repco etc.

Im using the Castrol fully synthetic gearbox oil and diff oil too. Works really good and certainly improved the feel of both.

mine is 93 GTST with 170k on it and the box still shifts smoothly and the diff locks up well.

I can remember the names of them exactly but look it up in the oils thread n you will sus it.

  • Like 1

Really the difference between fully synthetic oils only matters when you are tracking or running some really high power etc etc.

Otherwise mobil 1 is fine if a bit overpriced for what the product appears to be these days and in comparison to the competition.

I use Castrol Edge titanium 10-40. Good oil, often comes up on special at repco etc.

Im using the Castrol fully synthetic gearbox oil and diff oil too. Works really good and certainly improved the feel of both.

mine is 93 GTST with 170k on it and the box still shifts smoothly and the diff locks up well.

I can remember the names of them exactly but look it up in the oils thread n you will sus it.

That would be great mine is a 93 GTST with 140k the diff and gear box are as old as the car. I have heard Castrol are the best but everyone has there own opinion, I know from a bloke at work they use Castrol in his $80,000 VW R

they are strong bits of kit if they are well maintained and not abused.

and yeah, fully syns are only used if you want the highest performance and longevity in a part. otherwise for most OEM they don't bother. Ur mum driving down the shops n to work doesn't need fully syn, it just wont make a difference except in price.

Iv got 320hp atw pumping through it and I use it as often as I can including some track work. So she gets the fully syn :)

I think it varies greatly depending on use

I give it a complete/full service when I buy a vehicle if I don't have proof of when what work was done.

 

If it's been 4yrs I would do all. I do the fuel filter and brake fluid yearly if it needs it or not.

If your tracking your skyline then you would do the brake fluid after a number of track days or when you boil it.

 

Diff oil and gearbox oil being in sealed/airtight units - not often. Although depends on temp, contaminants like moisture or particles.

Thoughts will vary on these. You could work off the cars servicing manual and/or the manufacturers life expectancy as a general rule.

Personally IMHO, if it's your daily every 5-7yrs depending on the number of KM's you put on it each year.

They arent air tight. Both have breathers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...