Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so basically im just unsure of two possible problems here and was hoping someone could point me in the right direction

I've got a c34 stagea and for the past 2 weeks my gauge hasn't been able to read higher than half way when i fill up
so i opened up the tank and pulled the float assembly out and moved it manually to see where the gauge needle landed and what i got was:

float at full position = gauge just over half

float at half way = gauge at 1/4
float at empty position = gauge at empty

so i was wondering two things....(1) faulty gauge?? or (2) faulty sender unit??
or other??

appreciate any help on this one guys =]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433191-need-help-with-fuel-gauge-issue/
Share on other sites

Yeah if its just a 2 pin plug then either bridging it or opening it will send the gauge full. I'd say it needs 100% voltage to read full on the gauge

If its 3 pin then you will have a power, ground and signal. Joining power directly to signal should give you full gauge

IMPORTANT: Be very very very careful bridging wires near the fuel tank. Fuel vapours, spark..... These are the things that cause explosions in combustion chambers :)

  • Like 1

You should really post in the Stagea section, owners there are more likely to know there are two level senders in a Stagea fuel tank. :P

Check the other side once the tank is empty next, and make sure you replace any Orings.

I would try bridging the level sensor wires, I think if gauge is ok bridging word would cause it to read full.

Yeah if its just a 2 pin plug then either bridging it or opening it will send the gauge full. I'd say it needs 100% voltage to read full on the gauge

If its 3 pin then you will have a power, ground and signal. Joining power directly to signal should give you full gauge

IMPORTANT: Be very very very careful bridging wires near the fuel tank. Fuel vapours, spark..... These are the things that cause explosions in combustion chambers :)

ohh yea cheers guys ill give that one a shot after work this afternoon

haha yes things that can make the car go boom.....easy enough to play it safe i can keep the tank sealed and have the plugs disconnected, ill let you know if i make it out alive :P

You should really post in the Stagea section, owners there are more likely to know there are two level senders in a Stagea fuel tank. :P

Check the other side once the tank is empty next, and make sure you replace any Orings.

yea i was thinking to but i figured this could be a pretty generic issue and id be likely to get more reply's over here

thanks for the heads up though ,will do if i dont have it figured by this weekend :thumbsup:

You should really post in the Stagea section, owners there are more likely to know there are two level senders in a Stagea fuel tank. :P

Check the other side once the tank is empty next, and make sure you replace any Orings.

Really?

Is this for more accurate fuel readings when turning corners etc?

ok so i took some advice off you guys and the gauge seems to be fine..... heres a few things that i came up with

(1). if i short the signal wire to ground i get the gauge reading at full (low resistance means full)

(2). and if i leave an open circuit between signal wire and ground i get the gauge reading dead empty (higher resistance means empty)

(3). between the terminals attached to the sender im getting a reading of 53 OHM's...tank is about half full at the moment.

quick little explanation:

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx202/Jalalladin_Mohammad/fuel_zpsc1eba111.png

so now i suppose i move on to one of two things...... can the sender be fixed or where can i get a replacement??

Good work! I don't think it would be viable to repair the sender, start looking for another :) if you find 2 let me know cos I also want one to modify how my fuel pump word are run through the lid. I haven't been looking hard though.

Edited by superben

Good work! I don't think it would be viable to repair the sender, start looking for another :) if you find 2 let me know cos I also want one to modify how my fuel pump word are run through the lid. I haven't been looking hard though.

id say so....well at least i know where fault is now thanks guys

haha yea ill start looking around and if i do find 2 ill drop you a PM mate

so i havnt been able to track down a new sender after about a week....didnt try very hard either
but i did manage to find the problem :)....so just if any one was curious

if you look at the image in the link below, where ive drawn the "red arrow" that part of the arm for the contact was touching the PCB so so slightly but enough obviously to mess up all my readings and blah blah give a wrong reading on the gauge

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx202/Jalalladin_Mohammad/arm_zpsc3b0f902.jpg

happy with that result, i saved myself a few dollars ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...