Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I reset my timing today on my rb20det. But in order to get 15 degrees BTDC on idle, the CAS had to be turned almost fully clockwise.

Once fully clockwise the idle would drop until stalling and it was also hunting. I have played around with the AAC valve, turning the idle adjustment screw both clockwise (decrease idle) and anti-clockwise (increase idle) and nothing happens.

I'm thinking that the BTDC mark isnt the true mark. Maybe the key slipped out of the crankshaft when the timing belt was changed (previous owner).

Would that explain why the idle adjustment screw on the AAC valve isnt working?

Im really lost and dont really want to remove everything to check if they key is there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433251-timing-issues-with-btdc-marks/
Share on other sites

Only a 5 minute job to pull the top cover and check cam timing against TDC on the balancer.

Cam wheels each have a dot referenced against their respective timing marks on the back cover.

I did all that. Lined it all up. As far as I know the base timing is good.

Then why suggest the key had slipped on the crank?????

Trouble shooting must be done in logical steps.

Ensuring cam timing is spot on must be one of the first checks.

I put a timing light on my car, which showed that my timing was out. Then i took my cas off, followed by my cam cover. Then with a breaker bar and a socket i rotated the camshaft until number 1 cylinder was TDC, and matching the cam wheels.

If the key had slipped on the crank, would it not make the actual TDC mark not accurate? because is has actually slipped out of place? Which would make the engine seem like the timing is out even though the timing light says 15 degrees BTDC?

when you lined up the marks on the cam gears to the back plate, where did the marks line up on the harmonic balance? Also when you adjusted the screw on the AAC valve did you unplug the electrical connection?

Yes it all lined up. I just took the harmonic balancer off to check if the keyway was still there and its all right, I double checked.

I disconnected the brown plug connected to the AAC valve, it dropped to 600rpm and then lasted about 5 seconds before stalling. I also tried multiple adjustments on the screw and no difference.

An automotive engineer will offer you a smoke test, but some of the backyard boys might suggest you listen very carefully to every rubber pipe, then spray spay start -u - bastard on them to seen the RPM increase...

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Would be good in your car I reckon Johnny. Have seen reports they don't seem to love circuit use and sustained high RPM, but there's so many variables and implementations it's hard to tell fact from fiction.  All that said, is it worth it in this car given how you feel about it? Probs not? 
    • I don't know specifically. I *do* know that it is very likely that historically most/all undertray replacements remove the inner liners and people just run without them. When you are hectic (or serious) enough to really want/need a different undertray, you are probably also running wider, taller or different offset wheels and the guard liners are the first thing that rub (or as I said in the other thread, they blow out at high speeds anyway) Of course, that is before the pricing went nuts on R34s, nowdays it is much more likely people want/expect to retain the liners to protect their overall investment
    • Haven’t had a chance to drive it properly yet. It was rwd and pissing down rain when I drove it home and now it’s in the air with the so I can change the oil. Going to do the  gearbox oil while I’m at it as well, may even do the diffs 
    • On 12th June, the mechanic could not figure out what the issue was, but the car seems to be flooding with fuel. He was suspecting the tune, thus referred me to a tuner. Although the tuner is not familiar with Nistune, last Monday (30th June), he came over to try and re-map it. Despite the tuner trying to completely stop fuel, it kept sounding like it was pushing fuel. Tuner ended up suspecting either the ECU or Injectors. I do not believe the ECU or Nistune is the issue, as the Nistune software reads and communicates properly. Today, I removed the (new) injectors to see if they are clogged or leaking. Surprisingly enough, after those 3 days of driving, injectors 2 and 3 look very blocked. You can see the difference in the picture. I blew a bit on 3, that is why it doesn't look as clogged as 2. I am still unsure if this is what is causing the no start issue, but I am now feeling that I may have bought the injectors and Nistune without the need to do so, as the problem seems to be coming from somewhere else.  
×
×
  • Create New...