Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I reset my timing today on my rb20det. But in order to get 15 degrees BTDC on idle, the CAS had to be turned almost fully clockwise.

Once fully clockwise the idle would drop until stalling and it was also hunting. I have played around with the AAC valve, turning the idle adjustment screw both clockwise (decrease idle) and anti-clockwise (increase idle) and nothing happens.

I'm thinking that the BTDC mark isnt the true mark. Maybe the key slipped out of the crankshaft when the timing belt was changed (previous owner).

Would that explain why the idle adjustment screw on the AAC valve isnt working?

Im really lost and dont really want to remove everything to check if they key is there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433251-timing-issues-with-btdc-marks/
Share on other sites

Only a 5 minute job to pull the top cover and check cam timing against TDC on the balancer.

Cam wheels each have a dot referenced against their respective timing marks on the back cover.

I did all that. Lined it all up. As far as I know the base timing is good.

Then why suggest the key had slipped on the crank?????

Trouble shooting must be done in logical steps.

Ensuring cam timing is spot on must be one of the first checks.

I put a timing light on my car, which showed that my timing was out. Then i took my cas off, followed by my cam cover. Then with a breaker bar and a socket i rotated the camshaft until number 1 cylinder was TDC, and matching the cam wheels.

If the key had slipped on the crank, would it not make the actual TDC mark not accurate? because is has actually slipped out of place? Which would make the engine seem like the timing is out even though the timing light says 15 degrees BTDC?

when you lined up the marks on the cam gears to the back plate, where did the marks line up on the harmonic balance? Also when you adjusted the screw on the AAC valve did you unplug the electrical connection?

Yes it all lined up. I just took the harmonic balancer off to check if the keyway was still there and its all right, I double checked.

I disconnected the brown plug connected to the AAC valve, it dropped to 600rpm and then lasted about 5 seconds before stalling. I also tried multiple adjustments on the screw and no difference.

An automotive engineer will offer you a smoke test, but some of the backyard boys might suggest you listen very carefully to every rubber pipe, then spray spay start -u - bastard on them to seen the RPM increase...

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...