Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

long story short my rear brakes failed today completely seized at my drift day which sucked.. i was using my stock handbrake.. lasted two hits of the handbrake.. then was nothing when i pulled it up..

basically rotors and calipers are fooked,,

any recommendations for an upgrade to suit drifting..?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/433295-r33-rear-brakes-for-drift-set-up/
Share on other sites

Do you realise that the handbrake works off the drum setup inside the rear rotors and that it is independent of the hydraulic braking system? I would say that a retaining pin, clip or spring has broken in the drum setup or that there's a problem with the hand brake cables or linkages.

mmmm well interesting to find out how the caliper failed causing the pads to lock on the rears but front were fine...... ill have to pull it all apart and check the drum set up-

is there an upgrade for the drum set up or just upgrade the calipers and rotors and fit a good hydro?

Mate the 33 drum setup is awesome thats why heaps of s chassis guys put it in there car just need good shoes like project mu thats what im using and its perfect just make sure all parts csbles and its sdjusted propetly nd ull have no problrms.

yeah i agree i got a hydro brought for me as a gift so i thought i would use it.. but i agree the stock is good..

so i am going shoe shopping.. just gotta find the motivation to pull all the stuff off - bit dispoint from the weekend -

but now i know what i need to look for -

thank peeps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...