Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First thing to do:

timing belt, water pump

Reason why?

Most imports have had their clock wound back, or clusters have been replaced

Then:

  1. Full exhaust (just get 2nd hand) ~$500
  2. Intercooler of some sort, even a R34 GT-t side mount $100
  3. Hit up Toshi for a socketed stock ECU with a new ROM tuned for AU 98 Octane fuel ~$350
  4. Turbotech MBC 0.8bar ~$30
  5. Fry tyres ~Priceless

The only thing I would add to that is a new fuel pump. The second worst thing that can happen to a 20 year old car after a shredded timing belt, is a failng fuel pump.

Edited by Missileman

Johnny's list is solid.

If you want to go further than that you will find out that everything on the R33 has been sized just right for factory output plus a little more. Figure out what your ultimate power goal is and work back from there to see what needs to be done.

This times 1000!!! I spent about 20 grand on mine when I bought it. Thinking back now could of saved a lot of time and MONEY by researching more. I would of saved about 8 grand and over a year of time for a better result.

Ha ha. I also would have saved a bucket load. 3 turbo's before i reached my power goal,

Part of doing timing belt and waterpump is replacing cam seals. They will leak, they cost less than 10 bicks each and you have to take timing belt off to do them, so do then at same time.

First thing to do:

timing belt, water pump

Reason why?

Most imports have had their clock wound back, or clusters have been replaced

Then:

  1. Full exhaust (just get 2nd hand) ~$500
  2. Intercooler of some sort, even a R34 GT-t side mount $100
  3. Hit up Toshi for a socketed stock ECU with a new ROM tuned for AU 98 Octane fuel ~$350
  4. Turbotech MBC 0.8bar ~$30
  5. Fry tyres ~Priceless

Who's Toshi? lol

P.S Thanks for the help fellas!

Just a thought, see if you can pick up an rb20det turbo actuator and swap it with the rb25 turbo actuator. I've seen the individual actuators sell for around $50. The rb25 turbo actuator is set on roughly 7 psi whereas the rb20 turbo actuator is set on 10 psi.

Just a thought anyway.

Part of doing timing belt and waterpump is replacing cam seals. They will leak, they cost less than 10 bicks each and you have to take timing belt off to do them, so do then at same time.

Agreed, mine leaked at about 160k and they were rock hard. Chalk that up as number 6 on the list of things the dropkick knuckledraggers I took it to for the 100k service didn't do properly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...