Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have finally gotten around to starting my 25/30 build.

Just using an R32 25DE head.

Unfortunately my 30 block has a few score marks in the bores so I will be getting it honed or bored if it is too far gone.

Main question I have is regarding stock 30e pistons, this build is purely for a bit of fun so I wouldn't expect any great power figure. I am after a set of NA pistons and after searching around precision seems the best option for me. In an older thread prices were posted up which were in the $250 bracket minus rings, I can't find anything near that except for ET pistons which I don't want to use.

Is this the excepted price for these now ?

Any info is much appreciated.

Edited by esky_mad
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434201-stock-rb30-pistons/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

nothing wrong with precision pistons.

i had them in my engine for a few months and i loved them. i pushed them to 310rwkw with the crome molly rings without an issue.

the engine was rebuilt and forged for reasons other then piston/ring failure.

i would use them again.

  • Like 1

I made 370- 470rwkw for 2.5yrs with the cast precision(cars auto aswell )..i then had a original alternator fail and cut the pumps under full boost

broke 1 piston other 5 where fine.

Ive also used them in a 5k toyota motor, made 156rkw on 24-25psi,on 98 octane had them in for 7-8ish yrs before i sold motor.

Some people have no luck with them though.

Standard pistons are super strong though if you find a set not to worn!

cheers

darren

I made 370- 470rwkw for 2.5yrs with the cast precision(cars auto aswell )..i then had a original alternator fail and cut the pumps under full boost

broke 1 piston other 5 where fine.

Ive also used them in a 5k toyota motor, made 156rkw on 24-25psi,on 98 octane had them in for 7-8ish yrs before i sold motor.

Some people have no luck with them though.

Standard pistons are super strong though if you find a set not to worn!

cheers

darren

some people have no luck with a fresh set of forgies too. its all in the build.

nothing wrong with precision pistons.

i had them in my engine for a few months and i loved them. i pushed them to 310rwkw with the crome molly rings without an issue.

the engine was rebuilt and forged for reasons other then piston/ring failure.

i would use them again.

Hi there mate,

Im doing the same build with r32 25de head. N/A stock pistons conrods and crankshaft. Just had the ACL race bearings, bottom and mains and ACL cromoly rings. Motor is fully refreshed and is ready to be put together, i did not get the motor balanced as i thought that there is no point as im re-using the same NA internal components, do you guys think i need to be worried?.. has any of you guys done a build without getting the motor balanced?.. cheers

I made 370- 470rwkw for 2.5yrs with the cast precision(cars auto aswell )..i then had a original alternator fail and cut the pumps under full boost

broke 1 piston other 5 where fine.

Ive also used them in a 5k toyota motor, made 156rkw on 24-25psi,on 98 octane had them in for 7-8ish yrs before i sold motor.

Some people have no luck with them though.

Standard pistons are super strong though if you find a set not to worn!

cheers

darren

Did you get your motor balanced after the engine build?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lamb roast on Saturday will be different 🥲
    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
×
×
  • Create New...