Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all

i need to buy some new tires for the stag daily

most probably 245/40/18

where do you guys recomend as far as buying and fitting?

i would prefer to buy them and have them fitted at one place but if their is for instance an internet based cheap as hell place then i will do that

i have been looking at a few options/prices so far

Falken 453 $279 each

continental (forget which) $249 eash

Bridgestone RE002 $267 each

Khumo KU31 $160 ish each

im open to brands and opinions if one is available for great prices,

do we have an SAU tire guy?

also if someone is selling good tires in this size pm me

im no northern subburbs SA

Edited by GH05T
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/434838-tires-fitted-where-to-buy/
Share on other sites

I just bought another set of KU31's for my 32R off ebay. SellerID: INT-TT

These were 235/45/17's at ~$100 per tire ~$10 each for delivery.

However 245/40/18 would probably be significantly more.

Mind you your also going to have to front a cost to have the tires fitted. This cost me around $40 from tyre power at parahills.

All up around ~$480 for the full set fitted and balanced, which isnt bad.

yeah not too bad,

my problem is im not sure what price increase is worth the dollars,

for instance im looking at things like achillies for cheap vs a bit more for khumo which i think is worth it, but should i spend even more and get the bridgestones?

am i getting a huge ammount more for my money or am i just getting the next tire in the line.

If you are only going to be driving on the street than I would highly recommend RE001's from Bridgestones. Slightly expensive but worth it in my opinion. I have KU 36's on the rear and RE001 on the front and that seems to be a pretty good combination. 36's give reasonable drive and the fronts grip like anything I have had so far.

Just get Achilles cost you about 450 for the set , correct weight and speed rating for stags , and to be honest there as good as my khumos that are twice the price , jet r31 runs them two

The questions you need to ask yourself are, what are your expectations? What do you want out of the tyre? Is it driven in the wet? How often do you want to be replacing them?

The thing to consider is that tyres are a consumable. So if all you're doing is driving around on the street and its daily driven. Do you really want to be slapping on tyres that are 2x the price when you wont even see the full potential of the tyre? Sure you want the added safety and the ability to pull up as soon as possible. I couldn't justify spending $1000 on a set of tyres that would only last me a year.

I dont think i'dd ever go back to KU36's on a daily. My GTR was abit of a handfull in the wet on KU36's. Of course if it wasn't daily driven they would have been ideal.

I cant comment on RE002's but it was a consideration at the time. In hindsight i regret the purchase of my KU31's as i no longer drive my GTR to work so it sits in the shed until it gets a hammering :)

Hey Zx,

that's basically what im trying to work out.

i do 600km a week, half highway driving, half city, sometimes spirited hills drives/ cruises, highspeed large roundabouts :P

i have bridgestone....somethings maby re001 or the 050 i dunno, on my current 17s, amazing tires, i have had khumo ku31 on my R32, not bad for the cost.

getting mixed feedback on Achilles but i know they are bang for buck the best for cheap.

im not interested in ku36 for 600km per week i dont want a semi slick, the bridgestones seem to have good life and well good all round.

Achilles will be damn cheap and for $1100 the bridgestone will be the best for that price (seeing as i cant seem to find any under $1500 fitted)

it seems i just need to decide to i cheap out and go Achilles or spend the extra and get the bridgestones.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...