Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'll consult a tuner before the install to look at my fuel pressures etc.

Is this nipple on the IC piping going to the intake plenum? I have a strange thing poking out of the piping already that almost looks like a spark plug. My original thoughts were that it was just screwed in to seal up the screw hole that's there so maybe this is the nipple that your talking about?

Is this nipple on the IC piping going to the intake plenum? I have a strange thing poking out of the piping already that almost looks like a spark plug. My original thoughts were that it was just screwed in to seal up the screw hole that's there so maybe this is the nipple that your talking about?

No. On RB20 turbo it is a small brass hose barb coming off a boss on the front of the compressor housing. The boss is there on RB25 turbos, but it is not drilled and the barb is obviously not there. On RB25s they fitted the tapping onto the intercooler pipe. It won't be on your pipework as standard. If you have something it will be because someone added, perhaps for a different boost controller iinstallation.

The hose is only 6mm, or possibly even 4mm ID. The hose (stock) goes direct from the hose barb to the wastegate actuator. If a boost controller is installed then it goes via the boost controller before heading to the actuator.

  • Like 1

Also I have been told to install that nipple closest to the turbo as possible(or there abouts) for an accurate WG actuator reaction. So in between the turbo outlet and intercooler or 'the hot pipes'

  • Like 1

My opinion is you should really get a tune done if you plan to run more boost than say 10 psi on the 25 turbo on a rb20. Im not up to date with pricing on Nistune boards but is the $990 you stated earlier on the Nistune board installed + tuned? Im guessing it is.???

my suggestion to you is try and find some 444cc standard GTR injectors which come up in the F/S section all the time. Im pretty sure there a direct bolt in, although you may also need the GTR resistor pack. Another member can confirm??? Get the nistune installed and tuned and enjoy. Getting it tuned will make a reasonable difference to power/torque/drivabilitly/engine longertivity and overall better fuel consumption as has been stated.

I could say more but out of time have to go back to work.

Josh

  • Like 1

I remember a forum member name CEFF13 or something similar had pre-made safe tunes (pretty rich and ignition wasn't too advance) for RB20DET with usual bolt ons and a RB25DET turbo for like $150 delivered, including the IC socket etc...

All you needed to do was desolder your old chip and pop in the new one.

I used one back in the days and managed 180 ish kWs at a dyno day.

  • Like 1

yeah okay.. I guess the only thing I can do right now is install the 25 turbo..

Next track night (yes its a track car) is next friday on the 22nd. So I might attempt the installation the following week.

Ill post results of installation.

I also found out yesterday that my 20 turbo elbow doesn't fit my 25 turbo.... Swear I read somewhere they were the same size??? I found the 20 elbow was marginally smaller....

Edited by Even_Flow

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...