Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have posted this in car parts instead of whole cars because the car is not whole :) Moderators please correct me if this is wrong.

For sale are the following items:

R32 GTST w/out engine or gearbox

- Diff still in place. Aftermarket steering wheel, gauges etc, Aus spec Tein coilovers that were 6 months old before the car was decommisioned approx 6 years ago.

- Interior still in tact but will need a cleanout

- Tyres old as f*ck but 80% tread at least.

- Paint in poor condition but will not be hard to freshen it up. Only rust is surface rust on roof sides and bootlid - will need a respray + fix a couple of minor dents. Boot lid needs replacing (was replaced ages ago as a wing-less bootlid but dodgy repair means rust under bog so it will prob need to be turfed. Has front Veilside copy bar

- Brakes were 80% new (DBA slotted + EBC pads)

- Early PWR vertical row intercooler

$2500

Garrett GT4508 Turbo (used) + CN Racing 50mm wastegate (brand new)

- Great condition, hardly used. Comp cover outlet will need pipe welded as it has been cut off where the hose could normally join

- Wastegate is brand new, never used. Throwing it in because IDGAF

$1500

RB25 Prepped Block with Forgies

- RB25DET Prepped block by Chilton Engineering (all the normal shit - acid/hot tank, decked, bored, honed etc)

- Eagle H-Beam conrods

- ROSS Racing Pistons

- Crankshaft has had the oil gallery plugs changed but no crank collar fitted

- Everything balanced etc

$2500

RB25 Cylinder head in pieces w/ Solid lifter conversion and cams ready to go

- Plain jane unmodified RB25 cylinder head that's been stripped and cleaned ready for porting (no valve guides or valves/springs etc)

- Supertech solid lifter conversion brand new ready to go into the head (This item I had listed for sale for $1800 by itself in this forum also but due to me selling all the other stuff I thought I'd mention it here as a complete ready to rebuild head instead)

- Camshafts custom Tighe Cams IN 280 x 10.4 and EX 290 x 10.4

$2000

If someone is interested in buying everything all together, I would be interested in negotiating a solid price that would be considerably cheaper

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435196-r32-gtst-parts/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...