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Car Will Not Start No Symtoms No Idea Need Help. 1989 Rb20Det

shaunpierre

By shaunpierre,
in General Maintenance

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shaunpierre Rising Star

shaunpierre

Posted
Posted

Car used to not start randomly after I bought it but would start eventually...., owner said coilpacks were getting hot.. So about a month ago on this hot day, the car would hardley idle, no power sputtering ect after driving for a while. it was absolute balls unless I let it sit for about 5 mins OFF. Then would start but problem would rrepeat every few kms. Coil packs were black as ash burnt out it seemed, so I put new yellow jackets and and new fuel pump and the coilpack loom from my gtr since the rb20 one was falling apart. And then the new fuel pump wass poping off the fuel filter..... Hose was shit around the edges. So after all this car is sweet started every time no stalls nothing drove nice skidded nice ect

Last week or so coming up to lights the revs will drop to about 500 and run stay there but not stall, when a/c is on its normal 850 ish,

Yesterday car died randomly at about 80km but it turned back on once I pulled overy and cranked it.

Drove to home and now won't start,

I have power

I dont have fuel getting pumped

It cranks but no combustion

I put the older pump in which works( connected it to power) but still nothin

I'm about to change o2 sensor

I'm also sus about the fuel pressure regs one has been changed its a nismo one with the bolt on the end.

I'm stuck Im usually fairly good with cars but this has got me f**ked, I've read some earths ect may be cause but all mine seem fine.

Any help would be much appreciated

Muff Rising Star

Muff

Posted
Posted

Try the cas. it wont fire if the cas plug is off / damaged / not connecting correctly.

Your Ignitor might be stuffed also. if u have a gtr use that one to rule it out.

Could also be the AFM.

Another idea, the fuel pump relay might be getting old and the contacts could be burnt up.

or try and use the fuel pump negative bypass idea. (find the negative for the fuel pump and run it direct to a ground will keep the fuel pump running at constant voltage all the time.)

GL

shaunpierre Rising Star

shaunpierre

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yea i opened it all up, there is NO power to the pump. it is not getting any signals ect,

Try the cas. it wont fire if the cas plug is off / damaged / not connecting correctly.

Your Ignitor might be stuffed also. if u have a gtr use that one to rule it out.

Could also be the AFM.

Another idea, the fuel pump relay might be getting old and the contacts could be burnt up.

or try and use the fuel pump negative bypass idea. (find the negative for the fuel pump and run it direct to a ground will keep the fuel pump running at constant voltage all the time.)

GL

yea im gona do the ignitor tmoz but i doubt its that, afm was cleaned other week and seems to have had a neat job was done on the wiring :P

why do you have a Z32 on a stock RB20DET motor & ECU?

i go the car like that, also has 33 box, front mount and boost exhaust other stuff but since i been putting back to stock coz was kinda rough.

also i think alot of ppl choose the z32 as a cheaper option than getting rb20 ones


533 RYC Proficient

533 RYC

Posted
Posted

ok, First things first dude:

1. Investigate as to WHY there is NO POWER to the fuel pump!

Fix this problem first BEFORE screwing around with anything else or else you are going to create more dramas!!!!!

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

Sorry mate but I'm getting frustrated. You started 5 topics - each one has now got theories from others in them with advice.

Listen to the post above re no power to fuel pump/s ^. That will certainly stop your car from running (Fuel, Oxygen, Spark)

It's nice to get advice and maybe there is a quick n easy fix you could do yourself. If you HAVE to DIY then create a list from obvious to not obvious and check it off.

To summarise the possible issues suggested in some of your threads in no particular order but if there is no fuel then START from there.

CAS + connection - Spark

Power to pump - Fuel, Cranks doesn't start

Fuel Relay - "

Fuel Pump - "

Fuel Filter - "

Fuel Reg - "

IC Piping - Pressure (AFM's)

Sparkplugs (fouled). Spark

Earthing - Spark

Coilpacks - Spark

Loom - Spark

Ignitor - Spark

AFM - AF Ratios

ECU - Management

02 (no!)

Then take it to a mechanic, please.

shaunpierre Rising Star

shaunpierre

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

fixed it!!

whole time it was a burnt out pin in a plug, i had to open it up and look at the pins ect to find it other wise it looked fine, it was in the boot over time it had detached/ burnt it self,

and sorry about the posts, i made it on my phone and it must of lagged or something ect, i messaged admins to delete the other posts.

thanks for all your help guys.

Edited by shaunpierre
  • Like 1
morto86 Apprentice

morto86

Posted
Posted

Hey guys I have a problem. Replaced a blown rb20det with another. The new motor arrived with the timing out by 4 teeth. We re did the timing and got it running. But it is idleling rough as guts and the motor will die without throttle. If I give the throttle a tap it jumps up but then will go out of control. Up to 3 Grand then slowly comes back down. I have checked afm iac and cold start valve by unplugging them to see if I get a response. Which I do. I have power and signal going to all injectors and coil packs. All cylinders fire. The ecu has a ewad out of 55 which is no faults. Im out of ideas. Will do a boost leak test tomorrow with soapy water. SO CHEAP! Thanks in advance guys

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Hey guys I have a problem. Replaced a blown rb20det with another. The new motor arrived with the timing out by 4 teeth. We re did the timing and got it running. But it is idleling rough as guts and the motor will die without throttle. If I give the throttle a tap it jumps up but then will go out of control. Up to 3 Grand then slowly comes back down. I have checked afm iac and cold start valve by unplugging them to see if I get a response. Which I do. I have power and signal going to all injectors and coil packs. All cylinders fire. The ecu has a ewad out of 55 which is no faults. Im out of ideas. Will do a boost leak test tomorrow with soapy water. SO CHEAP! Thanks in advance guys

I would be worried about the 4 teeth out bit. How many teeth can you be out until you hit some valves? Comp test to get an idea what's going on inside. Hopefully it's ok, but I would be concerned.
  • Like 1
533 RYC Proficient

533 RYC

Posted
Posted

Hey Nick. 4 teeth are a worry. Not sure how many teeth it takes for piston to valve contact, but that could be a possibility.......

As for the idling issue, if it's not the AAC, then I reckon you could have an intake leak (as long as the issue above is rectified without being related). Was it a complete engine you bought or just a long engine?

Carrying out timing checks & sweeps on these things can be alittle tricky. Did you follow the guides from the DIY sections?

533 RYC Proficient

533 RYC

Posted
Posted

I would be worried about the 4 teeth out bit. How many teeth can you be out until you hit some valves? Comp test to get an idea what's going on inside. Hopefully it's ok, but I would be concerned.

LOL COPYCAT!

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