Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Before I get jumped on I have searched and read every clutch related thread I can find, and I know I'm going to get the usual NC / Jim berry info.

I had a few questions I hope people could give there thoughts on.

Firstly 1995 r33 gtst Pull or Push clutch? I have read the s2 changed to pull? but also read all gtsts are push.

Now as for the clutch it's my girlfriends car driven daily, has the usual basic mods and will never see much over 200rwkw.

What do you suggest? I spoke to NPC about their 10" organic option, but for $800 compared to $350 for somthing like an excedy HD is it worth the money if its not going to make big power?

Anyone that has a extreme / excedy HD how much heavier is it over stock, as she battles the Monash daily.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435259-1995-r33-clutch-choice/
Share on other sites

exedy HD will do fine....

aslo did you ask NPC about their replacement clutches...they do have lots of other options that are cheaper than a 10inch organic and usually cheaper than Exedy too

and also fairly sure all gtst are push...only the 34 has pull

  • Like 1

Every single R32/R33 GTS-t is push regardless of series. Only R34 GT-t use those pull type clutches.

All GT-Rs, except before March 1993 all use pull type clutches. R32 GT-R pre March 1993 use push type which can be used in your GTS-t for extra clamp.

  • Like 1

Does no one ever just give a simple answer on forums any more? Easier to just be a smart ass?

Least there are still helpful people floating around.

Every single R32/R33 GTS-t is push regardless of series. Only R34 GT-t use those pull type clutches.

All GT-Rs, except before March 1993 all use pull type clutches. R32 GT-R pre March 1993 use push type which can be used in your GTS-t for extra clamp.

Thankyou!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...