Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1. Do an advanced search, searching by Seller's ID and includes all finished items.

2. Contact previous winning bidders on his successful auctions and ask them what their experience is, what is the quality of the product and what is the result (if they have installed it).

I did ask a couple of buyers before, they said d2power's service is good and delivery is fast. However at that time no one has installed it yet, they've just received it, so I can't get any result from the installation. Maybe one or two has done it by now. Anyway I have decided to get mine from Japan instead.... so I can't be bothered finding those buyers and asked them again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43538-fmic-purchase/#findComment-890398
Share on other sites

The same guy is selling just the intercooler without plumbing for $370. Given the low price I'm dubious on whether you'd get a decent quality intercooler. I was curious emailed him and you can get the plumbing only for $600 + p&h as well.

ModYourCar.com (located here in Perth) has a 600x300x76 cooler on special until end of June for the awsome price of $419 (was $550) and you can get the plumbing plus clamps/joiners custom done for about $450 (but in mild steel not ally like D2Power). Similar total price but personally I'd rather have the piece of mine of getting something local rather than from Hong Kong. My mate has just had a ModYourCar.com cooler fitted to his TT Soarer and reckons it's great!

Robo - You said your cooler is exactly the same. Did you actually get it from this guy (D2Power)?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43538-fmic-purchase/#findComment-901474
Share on other sites

And you're probably right too. Check out the reference pics on both auctions:

D2Power : http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...bayphotohosting

Flyn/Hybrid : http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...bayphotohosting

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43538-fmic-purchase/#findComment-901709
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...