Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just had the car remapped (drives so much better now) but the 4wd light has come on and we can't work out why. As far as I know the 4wd is controlled by a separate ecu, at least it is in the Skyline, so I was presuming it's still the case in the Stagea? This is on a series 1 rs4 that's had a manual gearbox conversion. Not had a problem with the 4wd system before, any help would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435505-4wd-light-on/
Share on other sites

No gone for the Link G4 ecu.Don't think anything that was done would have affected the throttle position sensor, how would that affect the 4wd?

Yeah could be coincidence, but the light came on as soon as the new ecu was plugged in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435505-4wd-light-on/#findComment-7121608
Share on other sites

I have the same problem. Well sort of anyway.

My 4wd light comes on probably 8/10 times I drive the car. Sometimes straight away, some times not at all... I have the rs4s with a 'mines' ecu.

I am putting a new set of wheels on this Friday and getting a wheel alignment so if that doesn't fix it (doubt it will) then further investigation is needed.

I am keen to see if there is known problems that cause this as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435505-4wd-light-on/#findComment-7125149
Share on other sites

Hey mate,

Was it tuned on a 2wd dyno? Might have clutch pack problem if you did...

Can you jack it up so all 4 wheels are off the ground? If you can, spin the rear wheels. If the front wheels turn as you do, you still have pressure in the ATTESA system. If not, you might be in strife. Best case, the clutches took a beating but are ok and you just need to get some more fluid in the system, check the reservoir in the drivers side rear.

I have the R33, R34 GTR service manual if you can get access to a consult box; it will tell you whats going on...

good luck, pm me if you need anything.

m

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435505-4wd-light-on/#findComment-7127128
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Ayvon, if your car is the R33 GTR, it's pin 56

http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22456

Link/ViPec and some other computers "share" the TPS signal from the TPS sensor instead of relying it which inturn lowers the voltage at the various control units, the 34 feels it the most because of the MFD, this is an issue I'm having at the moment and the cure, for me atleast, is a buffer to up the voltages back to correct levels

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435505-4wd-light-on/#findComment-7150916
Share on other sites

stagea rs4s s2 run the 25neo
i have replaced factory ecu now im having intermittent 4wd issues im trying to figure out what pinout / wire was suplying the 4wd ecu with tps signal
at this point i was going to t it off straight from tps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435505-4wd-light-on/#findComment-7151464
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

MFD, Multi Function Display, R34 GTR

where are located ?, I have a guy making me a voltage chaser, basically it takes a high imp input and puts out a low imp out put so it can supply the right signal voltage for more things to use, on mine I'm going to cut it in to the wire leaving the ecu, he made me a PWM switching unit for my fuel pump and it works perfectly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435505-4wd-light-on/#findComment-7162092
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...