Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thinking about bypassing the standard boost solenoid and installing a turbosmart manual boost controller.

Will this be safe? Buying a new gauge to keep an eye on boost levels.

What can i safely run on a standard turbo, it was rebuilt by the previous owner 15,000kms ago, not sure if its still got a ceramic wheel though..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/435758-m35-stagea-boot-control/
Share on other sites

Might want to find out if it's steel wheeled before winding too much into it, these do run 14psi stock...

If it's highflowed, perhaps the actuator mod is a better start? Be aware, you may start hitting airflow cut if you push too far... Then it's Emanage time.

Yeh better be safe, ill contact the previous owner tomorrow.

Been reading a few theads about it, will switching to a boost t help build boost earlier? Not more just sooner?

Something about the standard solenoid bleeding boost early..

I put a turbosmart boost T on mine and other than the rear section of exhaust it's all stock. Most I've run is around 17psi but got scared after a while and put it back to 14...i think I was getting airflow cut too at the higher boost sometimes. But yeah still run it and prefer to standard electronic one.

Nope, i have driven one that sounds like that though. Does the stock turbo always seem so loud?

Only time i can really hear the turbo is on cold start ups but once it warms up its gone. Just a slight whistle under full throttle.

It will drop off up top as the wastegate spring is just too soft, manifold pressure simply blows it open. That is the reason I modify them with an external spring. There are a few threads on the subject, one owner recently got a turbosmart actuator in there but it seemed like a lot of work compared to the external spring imo.

The spring can be replaced to any tension, or even removed so it runs stock boost again. That is the main benefit of mounting it externally, as you can perhaps change it in situ. Pain in the arse to swap actuators though.

I usually ship it with a 16 psi spring, but depending on the setup, it could run more. Replacing the BOV is the main culprit it seems, that might make it hold 20psi.

16psi sounds fun.. :D

Much point doing all this with the stock exhaust system?

Id like to get a dyno run, make sure all is okay before upping the power. Does Cihan do just dyno runs? Not up to tuning jusy yet. And does he have a contact number??

www.etuner.com.au

I would be changing the dump at least, if you saw one you would laugh. You could barely get a 50 cent piece down the throat, then into a restrictive cat.

He is easy to get along with, just let him know you want a baseline power figure before the inevitable tune. :P

You seem really keen on upgradig the stock dump scott, cant imagine why haha.. ;) but yeh ive seen a std one, pretty laughable.

Yes. Just a baseline figure. For now......

Is an emanage the best way to go in terms of tuning?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...