Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sounds to me like you're trying to set the rules according to what you've done to your car ;)

"Oh look... I don't have nitrous.... Therefore: Nitrous is cheating!!!!"

"Oh look... I'm only using radial tyres... Therefore: Cross-plys should be in another class!"

"Oh look... I'm using an auto box........................................ :Oops:"

-> Does that mean that you should be bumped into another class, away from the manual cars? :D

I'm chasing lower times. I'm not trying to satisfy some clown up in the commentary box or behind a desk at ANDRA... Who the hell is he to tell me what's right and what's wrong, and what's legal and what's cheating.

All I care about it that number that flashes up on the timing board at the end of the strip. I don't give a shit what you do to get there.

Sounds to me like you're trying to set the rules according to what you've done to your car ;)

"Oh look... I don't have nitrous....  Therefore: Nitrous is cheating!!!!"

"Oh look... I'm only using radial tyres... Therefore: Cross-plys should be in another class!"

"Oh look... I'm using an auto box........................................ :Oops:"  

-> Does that mean that you should be bumped into another class, away from the manual cars? ;)

I'm chasing lower times. I'm not trying to satisfy some clown up in the commentary box or behind a desk at ANDRA...  Who the hell is he to tell me what's right and what's wrong, and what's legal and what's cheating.  

All I care about it that number that flashes up on the timing board at the end of the strip. I don't give a shit what you do to get there.

I'm sort of a bit lost as to what this has to do with times ran on radial tyres Vs crossplys

As for the auto comment, yes to run a properly set up auto ie transbrake you can't run in the Sport RWD class which is what I wanted to run in though if you have to make posts like this to make yourself feel better about using Nitorus, its ok I understand :rofl:

The post was meant to illustrate that people are always trying to mold the class rules around what they have done to their car. It's pretty transparent really. You don't run cross-ply, so you don't want to compete against people running cross-ply tyres because they have an advantage over you. Makes sense doesn't it?

Same way that someone who runs 1 power adder doesn't want to compete against someone running 3 power adders. It all stems from what you have on your car, and you're trying to limit the allowed modifications so you're at the top of the field. People have been doing this for centuries in every kind of competitive setting.

I don't need to make myself feel better about using Nitrous, I've been using it for the past 6 years, I'm obviously fine about using it... But I'm over trying to educate people about it ;)

Respect a time I say.

..

Who cares how you do it. A fast time is a fast time isn't it?

As far as "street legal" goes - what a joke.

..

The way i look at it, the only people that complain about certain mods that other cars have, have slower cars. If you like your car & it pulls a time that makes you happy than who cares what others say..

Bingo! Couldn't agree more.

Its pretty simple...state ur mods done to ur car, include tyre choice.......show ur piece of toilet paper :D and if u've got half a brain u know who to compare urself to....even within a radial tyre theres everyday street / semi slicks / and drag radials....all i can gaurantee will give u different times.....so whether its cross ply or slicks..... no one is cheating! but u cant compare apples with oranges!

Holy crap, 11.32 in a M Roadster tell me more, and so im not whoring the thread does it use crossply or radial tyres?

Roy, M Coupe .. the M Roadster is the convertible version. Take a look at the Bavariacars website for more information (when Erik actually updates it!).

That ET was with BF Goodich Comp TA drag radials (street legal radial tyres). With street radials my best was 12.125 @ 132+ mph.

Yeh sorry M Coupe, an acquantance has one and whilst it is quick i wouldnt have thought there would be a hope in hell that it was that quick...but one of those turbo thingies no doubt helps!...interesting how they have to plumb the exhaust around to under the inlet to clear the exhasut side iner guard

And out of this whole crossply v radial thing...for the same given diam adn width which are typically cheaper?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...