Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so, my r33 runs too rich, and when i connect computer to the r33(below the steering wheel) and run the error codes it says o2 sensor is fried (code 13) but i tried changing it (to original sensor from friends car) and it still runs the same and still gives error code and i get like 0.7-0.8 V max (program shows) and my water temp in the dashboard isn't working at all, it doesn't rise at all, so i tried to clean the water temp sensors (both the ones that goes to ecu and the one that goes to dashboard) still nothing the one that goes to ecu shows some Resistance (ohm) and changes as the temp goes down so i guess it at least is working, but then i found 2 empty adapters or whatever they're called and i followed the wires from the o2 sensor and they go through this adapters anyone knows what these are or where they belong (just bought the car) or any ideas what to do next?.. pics below ZAknhX3.jpg

MJhPok4.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436487-r33-gts-t-runs-too-rich-unstable/
Share on other sites

What are the resistance value you get on the ECU sender ?

Does the engine actually get the radiator and hoses hot or they just stay warm ?

Is the hoses to the FPR plugged right and/or in good shape ?

It could be a lot of things, bad engine temp sender, blown fpr or fpr not connected, thermostat stuck open preventing the engine to warm...

What are the resistance value you get on the ECU sender ?

Does the engine actually get the radiator and hoses hot or they just stay warm ?

Is the hoses to the FPR plugged right and/or in good shape ?

It could be a lot of things, bad engine temp sender, blown fpr or fpr not connected, thermostat stuck open preventing the engine to warm...

if i remember right the resistance was about 1.6 ohm or something, from the 2pin ecu sensor, hoses are in pretty bad shape, i changed a couple ..when i squeeze the radiator hose on the left side of the engine (from radiator to engine) i hear kinda "leaking" sound from behind the engine , the radiator and radiator hoses stay "warm" not "hot" i can touch them with your hands and not get burnt at all, how do i check if my fpr is blown and how to check thermostat, should i remove it and take a look? soon i'll drive this piece of shiaaat off the cliff...

Edited by Miksu

so, my r33 runs too rich, and when i connect computer to the r33(below the steering wheel) and run the error codes it says o2 sensor is fried (code 13) but i tried changing it (to original sensor from friends car) and it still runs the same and still gives error code and i get like 0.7-0.8 V max (program shows) and my water temp in the dashboard isn't working at all, it doesn't rise at all, so i tried to clean the water temp sensors (both the ones that goes to ecu and the one that goes to dashboard) still nothing the one that goes to ecu shows some Resistance (ohm) and changes as the temp goes down so i guess it at least is working, but then i found 2 empty adapters or whatever they're called and i followed the wires from the o2 sensor and they go through this adapters anyone knows what these are or where they belong (just bought the car) or any ideas what to do next?.. pics below ZAknhX3.jpg

MJhPok4.jpg

Yep Pic 1 is Auxilary fan plug

Second plug is stock boost solenoid plug

You need to get your Water temp sensor (for the ECU) working properly or the thing will run rich all the time. The O2 sensor is only really used on cruise/light throttle, so will not affect the fuel as much as the ECU thinking the car is always cold

ok, now both sensors are working and car doesn't run nearly as rich BUT the water temp gauge doesn't even go where it supposed to be (half way on the gauge) it goes like 35% up and stays there, even if car were running for like half an hour it stays too cool? Is that a problem? and when i squeeze the pipe on the left side which goes to the radiator, i hear a "leak" like noise from somewhere and if i squeeze long enough you can see air bubbles start coming from the coolant liquid container cause it's see through.. ps the pipe is warm not hot and is easily squeezable (very soft) feels like there is no pressure at all inside. should there be? there's no more "sailing" on idle.

it goes like 35% up

Is there a thermostat installed? If so, it may be stuck open or it may be a low temp one. If not, fit one.

if i squeeze long enough you can see air bubbles start coming from the coolant liquid container

This sounds like your radiator cap isn't sealing properly. The outlet to the reservoir should only open if the pressure reaches the cap's rated pressure. Try a new cap.

  • 2 weeks later...
ok so , now engine warms up like it should and stays cool after thermostat change , now i have black smoke coming out of exhaust (didn't happen before t-stat change), and a strange noise from crank angle sensor or something it didn't have cover before and there was no noise, now i installed a cover and now it gives me strange noises.. any ideas? and i found out i have r32 ecu

black smoke here :


strange noise here:


Edited by Miksu
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...