R33 Gts-T Runs Too Rich/ Unstable

[Miksu]

so, my r33 runs too rich, and when i connect computer to the r33(below the steering wheel) and run the error codes it says o2 sensor is fried (code 13) but i tried changing it (to original sensor from friends car) and it still runs the same and still gives error code and i get like 0.7-0.8 V max (program shows) and my water temp in the dashboard isn't working at all, it doesn't rise at all, so i tried to clean the water temp sensors (both the ones that goes to ecu and the one that goes to dashboard) still nothing the one that goes to ecu shows some Resistance (ohm) and changes as the temp goes down so i guess it at least is working, but then i found 2 empty adapters or whatever they're called and i followed the wires from the o2 sensor and they go through this adapters anyone knows what these are or where they belong (just bought the car) or any ideas what to do next?.. pics below

[Ben C34]

Seems like previous owner has done some weird shit with the wiring. Can you ask him?

[Miksu]

the second picture is for standard boost solenoid and i have manual boost controller so should i leave it ?

[R_34]

What are the resistance value you get on the ECU sender ?

Does the engine actually get the radiator and hoses hot or they just stay warm ?

Is the hoses to the FPR plugged right and/or in good shape ?

It could be a lot of things, bad engine temp sender, blown fpr or fpr not connected, thermostat stuck open preventing the engine to warm...

[Victory]

The plug in the top picture is for the A/C fan that should be in front of the radiator and is not there.

[Sklyn]

the second picture is for standard boost solenoid and i have manual boost controller so should i leave it ?

yeah just leave that

[Miksu]

What are the resistance value you get on the ECU sender ?

Does the engine actually get the radiator and hoses hot or they just stay warm ?

Is the hoses to the FPR plugged right and/or in good shape ?

It could be a lot of things, bad engine temp sender, blown fpr or fpr not connected, thermostat stuck open preventing the engine to warm...

if i remember right the resistance was about 1.6 ohm or something, from the 2pin ecu sensor, hoses are in pretty bad shape, i changed a couple ..when i squeeze the radiator hose on the left side of the engine (from radiator to engine) i hear kinda "leaking" sound from behind the engine , the radiator and radiator hoses stay "warm" not "hot" i can touch them with your hands and not get burnt at all, how do i check if my fpr is blown and how to check thermostat, should i remove it and take a look? soon i'll drive this piece of shiaaat off the cliff...

Edited December 17, 2013 by Miksu

[89CAL]

so, my r33 runs too rich, and when i connect computer to the r33(below the steering wheel) and run the error codes it says o2 sensor is fried (code 13) but i tried changing it (to original sensor from friends car) and it still runs the same and still gives error code and i get like 0.7-0.8 V max (program shows) and my water temp in the dashboard isn't working at all, it doesn't rise at all, so i tried to clean the water temp sensors (both the ones that goes to ecu and the one that goes to dashboard) still nothing the one that goes to ecu shows some Resistance (ohm) and changes as the temp goes down so i guess it at least is working, but then i found 2 empty adapters or whatever they're called and i followed the wires from the o2 sensor and they go through this adapters anyone knows what these are or where they belong (just bought the car) or any ideas what to do next?.. pics below

Yep Pic 1 is Auxilary fan plug

Second plug is stock boost solenoid plug

You need to get your Water temp sensor (for the ECU) working properly or the thing will run rich all the time. The O2 sensor is only really used on cruise/light throttle, so will not affect the fuel as much as the ECU thinking the car is always cold

[Miksu]

ok, now both sensors are working and car doesn't run nearly as rich BUT the water temp gauge doesn't even go where it supposed to be (half way on the gauge) it goes like 35% up and stays there, even if car were running for like half an hour it stays too cool? Is that a problem? and when i squeeze the pipe on the left side which goes to the radiator, i hear a "leak" like noise from somewhere and if i squeeze long enough you can see air bubbles start coming from the coolant liquid container cause it's see through.. ps the pipe is warm not hot and is easily squeezable (very soft) feels like there is no pressure at all inside. should there be? there's no more "sailing" on idle.

[GeeDog]

it goes like 35% up

Is there a thermostat installed? If so, it may be stuck open or it may be a low temp one. If not, fit one.

if i squeeze long enough you can see air bubbles start coming from the coolant liquid container

This sounds like your radiator cap isn't sealing properly. The outlet to the reservoir should only open if the pressure reaches the cap's rated pressure. Try a new cap.

[89CAL]

it doesnt have a nismo thermostat? could cause it to run cooler as well

[Miksu]

don't know if it's a nismo or a cold weather one. and it's a pain in the ass to change a thermostat..

[Miksu]

and i live in finland so it's very cold here.. should i get a winter thermostat one or regular one? how will it work when summer arrives ? will my engine run too hot then?

[89CAL]

Just a normal Nissan one is fine.

[GeeDog]

Finland - your summer is probably colder than our winter. Does the heater work? Is it just warm or hot? I wouldn't think you'd need a low-temp thermo there - as above just a normal one.

[Miksu]

termostat was stuck open, i'll get a new one in few weeks ..

[Miksu]

i'll continue in this post if I still get cold start/running rich problems

Edited December 23, 2013 by Miksu

[Miksu]

ok so , now engine warms up like it should and stays cool after thermostat change , now i have black smoke coming out of exhaust (didn't happen before t-stat change), and a strange noise from crank angle sensor or something it didn't have cover before and there was no noise, now i installed a cover and now it gives me strange noises.. any ideas? and i found out i have r32 ecu

black smoke here :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eur1jjpDnI4&feature=youtu.be

strange noise here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6cmdujSLeo&feature=youtu.be

Edited December 31, 2013 by Miksu

[Miksu]

and one more question, here's the picture before I had the cam cover on i have this one hose going into the same pipe that comes from MAF should it?

[FalahR33]

Some of these cars need to be bought with well knowledge. Sometimes the seller is a junkie and its all cocktail collection of parts that he sold you as a car.