Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

When I bought my R34 all the vac hoses were muddled and I'm in need of some help as I cannot find the information anywhere else.

Firstly, is it completely ok for the charcoal cannister to be removed from a r34? As it has the Solenoid Valve which controls the purge. Do I just block everything off except for the fuel tank breather?

I am currently using a manual boost controller and the OEM solenoid is disconnected. Is it perfectly ok to connect it to this nipple on the hot side of the intercooler piping straight to the wastegate actuator?

20131229_220613_zps7db3afb3.jpg

Where does the nipple on the BOV recirculation pipe need to be connected to? This is the nipple just before the BOV line goes back into the intake.

20131229_220646_zpsf1ed9265.jpg

It can just be seen here where the vac line connects (on the left)

Cheers

Edited by owen1r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/436894-r34-gt-t-vacuum-lines/
Share on other sites

Wastegate line should be fed from as close to the turbo outlet as possible to the actuator. I think the vac line you have pictured (coming from the intake tube to the turbo) is for the stock boost solenoid and was blocked off on mine

The BOV needs a feed from the intake manifold because you need the vacumm under closed throttle to help lift the BOV off its seat

Thanks, I've now blocked off the recirc pipe and the pipe going to the canister control solenoid.

Only confused about the lines running out of the canister, there are two and both go to hard lines. They then split and run down each side of the vehicle, i've traced the passenger side one back to the fuel tank but I can't find where the one of the drivers side goes.

Why not leave the hoses/charcoal cannister connected? There is no power gain to be had by removing them and if the car is registeted for the road the cops can give you a defect notice

Yeah as above.

Just trying to remember what lines go were. I had mine hooked up wrong for ages and it wasnt letting the fuel tank breathe real well.

I think one line goes to the tank (sounds like that one is connected), 1 goes to the throttle body vac port (cooler side of TB), one goes to the intake manifold, and I think one is just a vent near the wheel arch? Not sure about the 4th line

I might order some hoses to replace the split ones but for now wanted to eliminate that as a possible cause for a missfire issue I have.

I've tried -

Spark plugs .8mm

Fuel filter

Boost leaks

Reverted boost back to stock.

O2 sensor

Ordered split fires, any other ideas? Missfire is mostly below 4k rpm.

Cheers

Missfire can mostly be noticed below 4k rpm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...