Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi I just finished my installation of my holset hx35w on my rb25neo.running it top mount an externally gated just finished if off today an I have a problem it starting to blowing smoke I had the turbo checked over before it was installed it had next to no bearing play front an rear wheels were in excellent condition no scratching or chips we had the turbo apart an it had no signs wot so ever that it had oil being blown out of it now since I ran the car for about a hour an an pulled of my air intake an intercooler pipping an wipped it with a paper towel an there was no signs of oil residue any were I can't work out why it's blowing smoke wan it was installed I made up new 19mm oil return lines but as for the oil feed I'm still using the original solid rb25 oil feed line any help would be appreciated cheers

post-119725-0-42993700-1388648362_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437027-need-help-on-holset-hx35w-on-rb25/
Share on other sites

first off as for the smoke at idle its minimal to none that I give it a hit it blows a lot for about 2 seconds than dies down to almost nothing again I unscrewed the o2 sensor an it did have a little oil on it....

as for the next question I believe it's a journal bearing an I was goin to buy another oil feed line tomorrow an see if that helps it at all

I will get a new oil feed line tomorrow but could it be that the oil return line is to small from wot I've red up these turbos do need a pretty large oil return line... is there anyone else that has dun one of these turbo conversations lately

You will need a oil restriction free feeding line for this turbo. Factory oil line has a oil restrictor in it, might have damaged the bearings already.

Get a proper dash 4 hose with speed flow connectors for the feed.

Make sure the oil drain pipe is not capable of storing any engine oil any where.

Make sure engine breather can breath freely (photo have shown that it is), crank case pressure can also cause oil flooding issues to the turbocharger.

If above don't help then this turbocharger do needs to be looked at.

  • Like 1

yea from wot I've red up using the holsets u tend to need to use much larger oil return lines... wot rubber line do u use as a oil return

I dont use a hose ive got full steel line i made up with id 19mm with one continoius bend going into a 45 degree silicon joiner off tge block. I dont trust hoses on high mounts since they sit to close to the manifold.

thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it I'm hoping the turbo hasn't been damaged I've only ran it for about a hour an about 50min of that was it sitting there idling but after that I pulled of the intercooler an air intake an there was no sign of an oil in it is it possible for the turbo to have a blown seal an only be leaking out the dump pipe... will upload a pic or the oil return tomorrow an see wot use think

I dont use a hose ive got full steel line i made up with id 19mm with one continoius bend going into a 45 degree silicon joiner off tge block. I dont trust hoses on high mounts since they sit to close to the manifold.

that's wot I made up aswell a solid 19mm steal tube an a 90 degree bend using a rubber hose at the block

Yeah if u only blow rear seals it will only leak into exhuast. Just out of interest what size return did u read holsets need?

every were I read just recommended using a larger return just due to the size of the turbo

You will need a oil restriction free feeding line for this turbo. Factory oil line has a oil restrictor in it, might have damaged the bearings already.

Get a proper dash 4 hose with speed flow connectors for the feed.

Make sure the oil drain pipe is not capable of storing any engine oil any where.

Make sure engine breather can breath freely (photo have shown that it is), crank case pressure can also cause oil flooding issues to the turbocharger.

If above don't help then this turbocharger do needs to be looked at.

This is the best advice. Stao knows his turbo problems, and has seen quite a few bush core highflows fail from lack of oil flow. The stock banjo needs to be drilled out at the very least. I go 2.5-3mm usually, drilling through the .9mm stock restrictor.

thanks for the help guys I really appreciate it I'm hoping the turbo hasn't been damaged I've only ran it for about a hour an about 50min of that was it sitting there idling but after that I pulled of the intercooler an air intake an there was no sign of an oil in it is it possible for the turbo to have a blown seal an only be leaking out the dump pipe... will upload a pic or the oil return tomorrow an see wot use think

I have seen a bush turbos fail within 50k's from similar stock restrictor issues. At least check the shaft play both ends of the turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
×
×
  • Create New...