Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My built 26 compression came up as 180 psi dry on all 6. Is this reading high as I've been told most stock or built ribs are around 160 psi. The gauge I used reads correctly. The test method is of no issue. Do u guys think my engine was built for higher compression as it has dash 10 turbos ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/437108-another-rb26-compression-qa/
Share on other sites

A comp test is virtually impossible to tell the comp ratio.

Too many variables.

Cam and cam timing play a huge part. The only way to know for sure is measure everything and calculate it, but I wouldn't pull an engine apart just to do that. Who built it? Don't they know?

My built 26 compression came up as 180 psi dry on all 6. Is this reading high as I've been told most stock or built ribs are around 160 psi. The gauge I used reads correctly. The test method is of no issue. Do u guys think my engine was built for higher compression as it has dash 10 turbos ?

Not really an out of this world number. Don't worry about what the engine builder was thinking just concentrate on getting a good tune.

You don't build it for higher compression with shit turbos like that.

Anyway, too many variables in a comp test to make a definitive call. It's simply used to give an indication of health of each pot compared to the next

Not such a stupid idea.

On something as laggy as a pair of dash 10's on a 26, your only bottom end response may come from your higher than normal compression build (if thats what your builder did), add E85 to the mix and it might be a bit of a sleeper in disguise. :)

Obviously there are far far better turbo choises on a 26, -10's are so yesteryear.......

Edited by GTRPSI

Not such a stupid idea.

On something as laggy as a pair of dash 10's on a 26, your only bottom end response may come from your higher than normal compression build (if thats what your builder did), add E85 to the mix and it might be a bit of a sleeper in disguise. :)

Obviously there are far far better turbo choises on a 26, -10's are so yesteryear.......

But then you can never run anything but E85 given you need to run so much boost to make -10s make the power to justify, all you'll end up doing it fighting detonation as peak torque on PULP. It's not like you are going to pick-up 500rpm+ response which is what you'd need to come close to -5s... One would sooner entertain the dirty idea of living with the horrid lag, surging and everything else and just have top end (but again, bin the -10s).

As i said, not the perfect turbo choice, but he can work around to some degree with what he has to work with, lots of big laggy turbo High comp E85 setups working quite well out there.

I wouldnt even consider it on Pulp, suicide.

Id agree with the bin the -10's for something better, surging can be to some degree sorted with a exhaust mainfold balance pipe and a deflector/seperator plate on the outlet twin turbo pipe and some tuning, but by the time you add it all up its sometimes just logical to go the smaller turbo route or a single setup, just ease for end result.

If he wants to run it he can make it work, its just a question of the whole package being right, there is quite a bit to making those ancient -10's work, its just a question if the amount of input is worth the end output.

Do you remeber Stefans car ZILLR (im his dad posting), we pissed off those -10 turbos quick smart.

They ended up on a R33, the new owner loves them, around 370KW at all 4 now (i think), tune and cam gears pulled out a lot of the lag, lost its old top end, gained a lot down the bottom, ended up being a lot more street freindly.

This was its first tune session in RWD before the 370 it pulls now on all 4 with a stock bottom end, add E85 and cams for more (and a forged bottom end would be a good idea)....

Edited by GTRPSI

You can't put big/laggy and well in the same sentence if you are talking sub 400rwkw!

The new owner just doesn't know any better is all that means if they are 'loved' :thumbsup:

Put -5s on any package with -10s and it'll be night and day levels of better in every area.

New turbo owner has been in his cousins race pace tuned R34 Vspec with -7's and a few -5 GTR's, however what he wanted with the R33 was just straight line drag type performance, without spending (key point), we had the turbos and manifolds for sale at a good price at the time.

We know him quite well, i spent a whole evening trying to talk him out for buying them due to the lag and his stock bottom end, didnt work.

Speaking of -5 turbos, Stefan told me you took him for a bit of a spin in your race pace built R33, next morning when he got up he was singing praises when telling me about it, very impressed with the setup and the way it laid the power down.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
    • The axels in my R33 seem tired, and have a bit of play in them. I cannot find any new of course, not interested in buying used, but I am looking to see if anyone can identify some cross compatible axles. In the states I have seen suggested for S chassis the J30 axles, however for the skyline (as best I can tell) the lengths are about an inch off (2.5cm) on both sides. R33 my measure L 22" R 24.5" GPT L 22.5" 24.25" J30 L 23.5" 25.5"  so shaft length is probably an inch wider. Not sure if someone has another still remanufactured option besides the J30. I figured worst case I can buy a pair tear them down and swap the center shaft. My other option was reaching out to GSP to see if they cannot piece together a set, since the axle stubs are still manufactured, I wouldn't think it be that hard to find a shaft or make a shaft work. 
×
×
  • Create New...