Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can be close to $1000 if you get the idler bearings replaced ($300 part).. can all add up..

Mine is currently at around $1300 .. and i took it in "just" for timing belt replace and waterpump replace.. but there were other things that needed doing that would be pointless to leave if everything was apart.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43759-100000km-service/#findComment-895635
Share on other sites

I'm sure it has been mentioned before in another thread but is their a list of parts replaced or work performed @ a 100,000km service?

My car is about to hit 93,000km and it's still driving as smoothly and beautifully as the day I picked it up (~55,000km) so im abit reluctant to go and spend $1,000 on labour/parts when it is quite possible that the speedo was "altered" before it even came to Australia (~3yrs ago) meaning my engine more than likely has already passed 100,000km (timing belt was changed at about 50,000km).

Normally with computers "If it aint broke, don't fix" however my R33 is hardling a $1,000 PC.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43759-100000km-service/#findComment-895665
Share on other sites

Ok just answered my own question: http://www.nismo.com.au/major_service.htm

Of the 29 jobs that UAS do their are only 8-10 jobs that I can't do myself because they require tools/knowledge that I don't have. The other ~20 items have all been done within the last ~4mths.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43759-100000km-service/#findComment-895695
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...